Saturday 21 May 2022

Play: Marys Seacole & Roman London Walk

Yesterday, headed to Marys Seacole, at Donmar Warehouse. Based on a true story. I'd heard mixed reviews. They were good enough to email me a link to my account, where I could access my ticket.

Where to eat beforehand..? Friday night in the West End isn't easy. I had a look at nearby restaurants, and figured I'd have a go with Mon Plaisir - French, naturellement (apparently the oldest French restaurant in London), and right around the corner from the theatre. I booked, for safety, although I think I'd have been OK - careful though, they charge a £20 cancellation fee for no-shows or cancellations within 24 hours of the reservation, or a £10 charge per person for a last-minute change of numbers! They have a 20-minute grace period in which you can arrive after your allotted time, which I think is quite generous. Anyway, duly warned, I made sure to leave in time, and arrived early, Found the restaurant without much difficulty - I'd specified I wanted to eat inside, although there were people at the outdoor tables.

And.. then I couldn't open the door! So, it turns out there are two doors, but only the one on the right can be used for entry! This isn't indicated. The other is (usually) locked. Made my way to the entrance, where a couple were enquiring whether there was a free table.. a little consultation, and there was no problem. When I gave my name and explained I had a reservation, the lady asked whether I was going to a show, and what time I needed to leave. V pragmatic. And then I was led down the back.. through the kitchen (mind the step, and your head on the low doorway!), past the bar, and back into the section of the restaurant with the locked door! Well I never.. anyway, seating is on chairs and comfortable banquettes, plenty of cushions.


I was sat at a table with two settings, and the lady in charge - who sounded French - thought I was waiting for someone. I had to alert her that I was ready to order - whereupon the extra setting was removed, and I did. I enjoyed browsing the menu, with dishes listed in French with English translations - I didn't fancy a starter, just asked for a bread basket. For main, I had seen coq au vin on the menu online when choosing this place, but when I saw duck with honey sauce on the specials, I just couldn't resist. It comes with sauteed potatoes. And of course, a glass of wine - they're all French.

It was fun, listening to the banter of the girls working at the bar - they're definitely English. The bread basket is nothing special, just a sliced white baguette with a little pot of butter: but I was hungry, and it filled a spot. Food arrives in a dumb waiter, and I was halfway though the basket when my duck came. Mesdames et Messieurs, that is definitely a honey sauce! And plenty of it - I was in heaven, scoffing the lot in no time. Dessert after, and they had what in some places is called a Coupe Colonel, and here Le Colonel - lemon sorbet in vodka. So that is what I had too. It comes in two sizes.. and being well early for my play, I had the larger. Which was lovely - but I might go smaller in future, vodka in large quantities doesn't agree with me..

When I was ready to leave, I asked the waiter which way I should go, and he said it didn't matter: in which case, I said, I'll take that door! which he unlocked for me. Well, it was closer.


My phone had no reception in the restaurant, so I was glad to have it restored outside. And so to the theatre, where I was in the Circle - and they advertise a bar on each level, but the Circle bar was closed. Mind you, for once I passed - I was feeling a little the worse for wear after the vodka. Nice, central seat - I did have to lean forward from time to time, to see the action at the front of the stage:


The show starts to tribal drumming, and we are introduced to Mary Seacole herself, in Victorian garb, telling us how she grew up in Jamaica and learned to be a healer. And then - she steps out of the dress, to reveal a modern nurse's uniform, and we are treated to a modern hospital scene, an old lady with dementia being visited by her daughter and granddaughter, until she soils herself, they exit stage left, and the nurses are left to clean it up!

?

So, I guess this is meant to hammer home to us the caring nature of the nurse's profession. And before we know it, we're catapulted back into Mary Seacole's life, and then back into modern times, everyone wondering what is going on. This next bit seems to be to emphasise how annoying Americans can be (she lived in Central America for a while). And then back to Mary, now helping out in the Crimean war, and at loggerheads with Florence Nightingale. And lo, we're back to the present day, for a bewildering segment about people acting injured, so trainee nurses can learn triage. And then it all sort of gets mashed together..

Now, the modern segments are quite funny. But what you could not call this play is coherent, and by the end, when they're all gathered on stage, yelling apparently random bits of dialogue from different parts of the play, it's just chaos. Might suit some, didn't suit me - and I have a high tolerance for weirdness. Had I been at the end of the row, I'd have walked out. Anyway, should you be curious, it's on until the 4th.

Didn't have time to blog last night, because - well Lordy, I booked for the Roman London Walk, with Walk About London (also advertised on Walks, Talks & Treasure Hunts - both linked to London Guided Walks). Which was on early. Now, I missed the last two I was booked on with this company - third time lucky? Got reminders a few days beforehand.

Under 15 minutes to walk there from where I currently live. Handy.. but when I got to the exit of Tower Hill Station, there were a couple of groups in the plaza outside. I couldn't see any obvious signs of where I was to go - I checked, and yes, I was in the right place. I was looking for a guide wearing an orange lanyard, and a sign - nope, couldn't see them. I did see a large orange umbrella - turned out to belong to a Spanish tour group. Finally narrowing it down to that group and another, I peered at the various members of the group, and finally spotted the most discreet guide I've ever seen, lanyard mostly hidden by his jacket, sign securely tucked under his elbow. I joined the circle, and when a couple of Americans asked me whether this was the group, I said, "I think so!" whereupon we all queued to check in.

He had a mic - just as well, given our proximity to the others, at least at this point. And over the next 90 minutes+, he was like a walking history textbook. We knew we were in the presence of someone with an in-depth knowledge of the subject, and there were some serious history buffs in the group who were delighted. We started, of course, with that large section of Roman wall just near the station:


Can you see the horizontal lines of red running through the wall, on the lower half? That's brick, and it was used by the Romans to strengthen walls. The reason the bit above it doesn't have this feature is because it dates from mediaeval times! Also, ignore that statue - although, as he says, tour guides always cheat and use it in their promotional photos.. this is Trajan, and he had absolutely nothing to do with Londinium.


The clock was made to stick out like this so that it could be seen from Fish Street Hill! This was originally a Roman road, leading north from the original London Bridge.

Round by other Roman sites, such as the bathhouse, and the Temple of Mithras. As we wound our way through the City, we came ever closer to my home - and so into Leadenhall Market, which I've hardly ever been into. Used to be the Roman forum - and housed the largest basilica north of the Alps, which stretched from the centre of Leadenhall Market.. to Moorgate! Crikey, that's nearly 3/4 of a mile!


And so, eventually, with the poor guide losing his voice (apparently he's allergic to plane trees), to the Guildhall, where the tour finished, looking at the outline of the Roman amphitheatre. And a round of applause was well-earned. Definitely the tour to go on if you really want to learn about Roman London. As ever, £3 off with the code MEETUP3 - which covers the booking fee.

Me, I wanted food - and the nearest place (open at weekends) turned out to be The Globe: which turned out to be a pub I have passed so often! but never gone into. I headed in and asked for a white wine - gave the poor guy a headache by asking whether they had anything from New Zealand. He thought they didn't - then pulled out a bottle of Oyster Bay! which I love. And had to go to the cellar for another bottle to top it up, since I wanted a large. For food, I had the garlic chicken schnitzel - which was gorgeous, with a scrumptious garlic mayo dip. Oh man, another heavenly meal, and with friendly service too.. I sure am eating well these days! And a lovely, summery day it's been..


And so home. For a while, because I had an appointment with City Rooms, later in the afternoon. Now, he didn't have anything that enthused me - but that doesn't really bother me right now. Because he did assure me that, should I choose something that's not quite right, they have a relocation service whereby I can change to another room in their portfolio! Jeez, I'd forgotten that. And more to the point (not that I told him), I have a viewing tomorrow, for something at least as good as what he was showing me..

Later tomorrow, London Classical Music and Theatre Group (LCMTG) have a late-advertised event, at the Barbican: the BBC Symphony Orchestra is playing Tchaikovsky's Symphony No. 6. Oh man, it is so long since I last met this group! Something has just always gotten in the way..

On Monday, I have yet another viewing. Now, this is an interesting one - I'd asked to see the room ages ago, he didn't get back to me - then got back to me yesterday and said the room was available again, and did I want to view?! Ooh, yes please - and unless something unexpected crops up during the viewing, I'm taking it on the spot - it's big enough, I think, it has a good big wardrobe, it's walking distance to work. The only one of those on the horizon. And it has its own balcony! Watch this space.. so I'll be leaving tomorrow's landlady dangling until this viewing..

That evening, I'm at an online talk - Anglo-Saxon Surrey - with the Surrey History Meetup.

On Tuesday, woo! back at Shakespeare's Globe - for Henry VIII, which I've never seen. And it's years since I was last here..

On Wednesday, back with Up in the Cheap Seats for Bonnie and Clyde, at the Arts Theatre. Now, most of the group going booked this ages ago - I just booked recently. And I noticed that all the cheapest seats were bench seating, which didn't sound terribly comfortable. But for under £2 more, so £25, I managed to get a ticket in the next band up - in the rear stalls - from Todaytix! See, they have this great £25 ticket offer until the 29th. Whatever about the show, the offer is highly recommended!

On Thursday, back with LCMTG - this time, we're at the Royal Festival Hall, where the Philharmonia is playing Mozart and Bruckner. Which makes this my best week for Meetup since lockdown, the only non-Meetup day being Tuesday!

And then back to Ireland for the weekend.

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