Of course, I'd been busy booking other things too - such as a "full-story" ticket to all the five houses associated with Shakespeare (much better value than individual tickets: I was to pick it up when I got there - valid for a year); a couple of them are a bit far-flung, but the hop-on, hop-off city sightseeing bus covers them all. So I booked a 24-hour ticket for that too - cheaper on that website. (Valid for three months after booking, and for 24 hours after first use. Cancellable up to 48 hours beforehand. But I had to get a co-worker to print the ticket for me - they only accept paper confirmations! and I still can't get the office printer to work.) And, of course - considering what I'm like - I booked myself into an RSC production on Saturday night, at the Swan. It's not Shakespeare, but it is a period play; Venice Preserved is a Restoration thriller.
Saturday morning was fun. I needed to get the Tube for the sake of going to the sorting office, but had I just been going to the station, I'd probably have managed by bus - the bus there skirts the centre. Well, off I went - and was besieged by bicycles the whole way, from when I was heading to the Tube to the time I got off:
More photos here. Funnily enough, I almost missed the sorting office, being distracted by adjacent road works..
The package? An Amazon gift voucher, a reward for completing a Work. Shop. Play. survey, so long ago that I'd completely forgotten about it. Ironically, I'd considered heading straight to the station from there - but had had no idea of the size of package I'd be collecting, or whether it'd be feasible to take it with me. In the event, I could've, but never mind. Now I had to rush home, pack, and rush out again - and it's a good thing I double-checked the station, because somehow I'd gotten the idea that I was leaving from Euston - no I wasn't, it was from Marylebone, and happily, I got the Tube right there. Made it with five minutes to spare, collapsed on a seat (not too crowded, on a Saturday), and brunch was a bar of chocolate..
As usual on trains, the WiFi on Chiltern Railways was shit. Anyway, I changed at Leamington Spa.. I'm spoiled with LED displays, so was a bit flummoxed when they had none here! So I had to, you know, use common sense.. figured I'd have to change platforms. So I went to the passage underneath the platforms - and they had a sign that explained that trains to Stratford leave from Platform 4. Sure enough, a pretty basic one was waiting there - and in due course, off we went, along tracks overgrown with hedgerows. A bucolic idyll could be glimpsed in the gaps, with tidy-looking sheep dotted evenly around fields that bordered country churches. And the sun was shining.
Arriving in Stratford Station, I wandered next door to check in - they give you a warm, double chocolate cookie! (with nuts). Strangely, a note had been appended to my booking to say that I required an accessible room - once we'd established that I didn't, she just gave me a different one, so I could check in a little early. Oh my, they have comfortable seats.. but I was there for a purpose, and when I'd freshened up, I headed off.
Shakespeare's Birth House was the closest - at about five minutes' walk - so I said I'd better head there first, get my ticket sorted. And let me tell you, it's worth a look! Shakespeare lite.. you can take a seat and watch a 15-minute film that gives you a flavour of the popularity of Shakespeare's works, and the commonness of the phrases he used. (In fact, if you have a non-English-speaking group, you can book a room for a private, translated version of this!) And when you're done with the exhibit, you mosey out the back, to the house itself (watch your head on the low beams, as in all these houses):
I skipped New Place, where no house is visible any more - wasn't in the mood to look at the garden. And as I strolled the streets of the town, I had to marvel at the sheer number of Tudor buildings - to come here, you really need to enjoy the period! Anyway, I stopped briefly into the school where Shakespeare studied - and then stepped quickly out again, as I was clearly the only customer, and it looks highly interactive! Not part of the Shakespeare Trust, they looked a bit anxious for custom - probably a good thing if you have kids to entertain, and had I been with a group, I'd have been happier to go in.
Instead, I continued to Hall's Croft, home of Shakespeare's elder daughter - her husband was a doctor, but they also benefited from Shakespeare's income, and the building is substantial:
And now I was hungry - but it wasn't yet 5pm, and wouldn't you know, a lot of places don't open till 5. So Ask Italian, which was open, won the day. Service a bit erratic, but I didn't mind - I was killing time until the play.
After dinner, I headed straight there - it had taken so long to be served that that was the wisest option. And gee, I'd been upgraded - from the upper gallery to the front stalls!
The acting was as marvellous as you'd expect from the RSC - and the production spectacular, staged in 1980s style dress, with power dressing for the ladies (padded shoulders and big hair), and Mad Max-style revolutionaries, looking very menacing. Terrific soundtracks, plenty of laser effects. Jaw-droppingly arresting. The story is a bit naff - a corrupt senate: the son-in-law of one senator, shunned for having "stolen" his beloved daughter, joins the rebellion against the senate, then tries to switch sides when his revolutionary pals prove not reliable. Doesn't end well. But by 'eck, it's entertaining! Runs till the 7th of next month. Highly recommended.
Yesterday - after a lovely night's sleep - I woke late, and not feeling hungry just yet (I never pay for hotel breakfasts, they're not generally worth it), I took the bus from the nearby stop out to Anne Hathaway's Cottage (she was Shakespeare's wife). A beautiful day for it - and a beautiful setting - the American-sounding lady in front of me absolutely gushed about everything (the sheep, the thatched roof..). Large gardens are laid out with treasure trails for the kiddies - a great idea. And there's a sculpture park - featuring, of course, images from Shakespeare's works.
The final Shakespeare house to visit was Mary Arden's farm (his mother). A semi-proper farm, with petting zoo, this MUST NOT be missed! At seven miles from the town, you might be dubious - no, it's worth the small effort of hopping on the sightseeing bus. The interactive re-enactments are worth the entire trip to Stratford - and we arrived just in time for lunch. Highly recommended - find the building where it's on, and you can chat to the actors while they prepare their lunch..
..then follow them through to the dining room. While they're eating their lunch, they'll happily answer any and all questions! Quite the best of this kind of exhibition I've seen.
I was absolutely delighted with the whole thing. Not so much with the selection at the cafes though - I was hungry by this stage (especially after watching the actors eat their lunch!). To be fair, the cafes were packed, seating was at a premium, and such food as they had was quickly snapped up. Not that they go in for main meals, out here. So I hopped the bus back into town, where I thought The Encore pub looked like a decent eating option. They were doing Sunday roasts - and yes, it was an excellent choice! Gorgeous food and good wine - I had the roast chicken, and it was as succulent as you could wish, with a scrumptious red wine jus. Mind you, when I read "chicken with stuffing wrapped in bacon" on a menu, I tend to think that the chicken is stuffed and wrapped in bacon - not what I got, which was chicken, with a little roll of stuffing to the side, which was wrapped in a sliver of bacon.. Anyway, I had onion rings and fries with it, and all were gorgeous! Highly recommended. Mind you, the slow service was in evidence here as well - I was lucky to be sat beside the serving station, where I could get my own cutlery and napkin: and although a waiter specifically agreed to fetch me another glass of wine, of course I ended up getting it myself. Not to mention that all the bar staff vanished as soon as I went up to order it..
For dessert, I fancied something a bit tastier than what was on the menu (which I took from the bar, myself). So I said, you know what, McDonald's - if nothing else - does decent desserts: nothing fancy, but very tasty. And I'd get served faster. There was one just up the street - inside, it turns out, they have machines where you can order and prepay! Very handy, and a much easier way to see what's available. I discovered that they now do ice cream cones, so I ordered one - and indeed, it was delicious. Unfortunately, it was also the runniest ice cream I've ever had - started melting, all over, almost straight away! So I ended up with very sticky hands. They need to improve the formula, methinks.
Well, now I needed to kill a few more hours - I'd booked the last train back to London. It was nearly five, so the Shakespeare houses would soon be closing, even if I'd felt like going back to them - and the sightseeing bus had done its last run of the day. Checking online, I saw that boat trips were still running - the pier was just as the end of the road, so I mooched around there for a bit. One did dock at the end of a sightseeing run - the pilot explained that they needed a minimum number to take it out again, but I could sit onboard while we saw whether others showed up. Two did - but it just wasn't enough. Still, we appreciated the chance to sit down for a bit!
Meandering slowly back, I passed something I hadn't noticed before - the Tudor World Museum was about to close, and not letting in customers. But they were advertising a ghost tour at 6.. it was now 5.15. Ok then. First, I cheekily grabbed the loo in a nearby wine bar - promised faithfully to order something after I'd been, then snuck out without doing so. And then I moseyed over to the tour entrance - paid, and took a seat while we waited for all the folks who'd booked online. I was lucky to get a spot, actually - there's a maximum of 16 per tour because of the cramped surrounds in which they do the tour, inside the museum, and we nearly reached that.
The stories were good actually - but there was nothing to see, apart from shadowy, unlit, cramped rooms (we had lanterns to go around with). You couldn't really see the exhibits, in the dark - the point of the tour is just the stories. It's supposed to be the most haunted building in the UK, actually, and the stories were all to do with stuff that's happened there - apparently, a couple of workers have quit as a result of things they've had happen. It's a decent tour - but be ready for a lot of standing around as he goes through the stories, for the first couple of stops; after that, there are places to sit. And most of the tour is stationary, listening to stories - after all, he does take over an hour to get through the building! But it was interesting.
And so I repaired, at last - and exhausted, after all that standing - to the hotel, for a cold drink and to charge my phone a bit. A good choice to head there, given that the station itself is under renovation, and doesn't have many facilities. Headed to the station about half an hour early for the train - which, handily, was already there, this being the end of the line. Snuggled into a seat at the end of the carriage - the train wasn't very full. The WiFi was now working, for some reason. And as this was a direct train to London, I had a very relaxing journey - dozed most of the way, in fact. And if I snored slightly, there was nobody nearby to hear - so, arguably, it didn't happen.
Took the bus home from the station, this time - a very handy bus, linking all the stations to the north of the city centre. I hadn't been bothered about blogging in Stratford Upon Avon, since I hadn't brought my laptop, and wasn't inclined to tap it out on my phone - and it ran too late last night. But I'll say this - what a delightful, relaxing mini-break! So glad I did it.
Tonight, back with Up in the Cheap Seats (UITCS) for Pilgrims, at the Orange Tree Theatre.
Tomorrow, I'm off to the Bunker.. they have a program of plays by black writers, called This is Black, and that day, I'm seeing Double Bill 2 (they run on alternate days).
On Wednesday, London Literary Walks has a walk called Moby Dick (ahoy!). It's around Greenland Dock.
On Thursday, I'm at a UITCS double bill at the Orange Tree! The Mikvah Project and Eight Gigabytes of Hardcore Pornography! (ahem..) Then I'm back to Ireland for the weekend again.
Next Monday, I booked for This is Black, Double Bill 1. But gee, Civilised London (CL) just advertised another night at Wilton's - featuring, on this occasion, the Lucky Dog Jazz Trio. Now, that'll be a blast! So I'm going to that, instead.
On the 13th, back with Anthony's Cultural Events and Walking Activities Group - they're at a free outdoor concert in Canada Square Park, called the Magic of the Movies. Again, I'll be watching the weather.
Now, UITCS is at Matthew Bourne's Romeo and Juliet the same night, at Sadler's Wells - and I was gutted not to get a ticket. But guess what - I got one for the next night! Last seat in the house, in fact.. love Matthew Bourne.
On the 15th, back with The Embers Collective, who are performing Full Moon Stories at Cafe Cairo.
On the 16th, I'm back with the Best Authentic Walking Tours in London (aka Funzing) - for the Sex, Drugs, Sausage Rolls Tour. Unusual for me to find a new walk!
On the 17th, going to see The Doctor, with Juliet Stevenson, at the Almeida. Now, I'd originally booked for this for the 15th, forgetting that The Embers Collective were meeting that day. Can happen when I'm booking lots of stuff. When I realised my mistake, I thought I just wouldn't bother with this - then saw that London Dramatic Arts are going on the 17th! So I switched my ticket to that night, and let them know I was coming too. Now, the organiser is selling tickets for this, and doesn't appreciate competition - or anyone advertising another way to get tickets. Which might be why she deleted the comment I left to explain that I'd be there that night too! I haven't had a message from her either - so I suppose she'll be ignoring me, then. Wouldn't be the first time.
On the 18th, going with CL to the Cartoon Museum - with optional dim sum afterwards. Yes please!
On the 19th, I'm finally going to see Evita, at Regent's Park Open Air Theatre. Never have seen it.
On the 20th, with the London European Club at the Globe - we're going to risk The Comedy of Errors.
And on the 21st, I'm seeing Showtune - an evening of Jerry Herman music - at the Union Theatre.
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