And then Tropical Storm Bertha came to town. Reassuringly, the ticket said the performance would go ahead whatever the weather, despite the Globe being open-air. Well, the stage and seats are under cover - it's just the poor sods in the Yard that would get drenched. And by the looks of this morning, they would have - it was lashing! By lunchtime, it had cleared up pretty much, and there was brilliant sunshine - when the clouds parted. Cooler than lately, but generally fine. And so it was when I set out.
When I got to Mansion House, I took the steps with the sign at the bottom that said "Shakespeare's Globe" - among other things. Now, meanly, they don't have a similar sign at the top, for you to choose between the two exits. You have to know that you're looking for Southwark Bridge - the exit to the right. Well, I did, and as I proceeded down the road, a family approached me. Ah, more tourists! the weekends are full of them. Anyway, they mustn't have been native English speakers, because it was the daughter in her early teens who asked me the way to somewhere. I bet she's top of her class in English. :-) Anyway, I had to ask her to repeat it - the London Eye, they wanted. You what?! That's the other side of the centre! too far to walk, anyway. Well, if you have a middle-aged lady and some kids in the group. Google Maps gives the walking time as 29 minutes. Well, I pointed them in the right direction, and remarked that they might want to take the Tube. She looked dubious. I explained that the station was just up there on the left. She looked much happier. I just hope she didn't expect to find the London Eye down that alley.. O why, o why, don't people bring a map? They're not hard to find..
It was breezy crossing the bridge, but you know, frankly, the cool breeze is a relief after the hot summer we've had. I was in plenty of time, so no need to hurry. It was nice, when I got there, not to have to queue at the box office - I had chosen a Print at Home ticket. And I was soon to discover that it's quite a different experience, going to an evening play there rather than a matinee, as with my last one. The first difference was that we were let into the "piazza" - the area outside the theatre - much earlier. Just as well it wasn't raining, though, because it took them forever to let us into the theatre proper. I had plenty of time to notice some more famous names among the plaques of donors. I hadn't bought a programme, but the lady standing behind me had, and remarked to the chap standing behind her that she was sorry now, there was such a wealth of historical information in it! Turned out the guy she was talking to was the playwright's old history teacher. "You can blame me!" he laughed.
I was in the Lower Gallery this time - the ground floor. Entry is via the Yard - that uncovered bit surrounding the stage. So that was interesting. My seat was close to the door, and I was shortly to realise what a terrific view I had..
Right, so let me explain what's going on here. Suspended over the stage is a large, decorated cross - supposed to represent the True Cross. It's held by a pulley system, that allows it to be winched out of the way, as it is here, or displayed vertically. Centre-stage is a golden throne, and if you look really closely, you can see a scimitar propped against it. Suspended from the roof of the stage are two large bowls of incense, which infused the theatre with the most marvellous aroma. There are musicians at the back, to either side, and the lady in white on the upper stage was singing something that sounded like a hymn to Allah. Now, this was a highly illicit photo, because you're not supposed to take photos when performers are on stage. But they didn't catch me, so nyeh. They did stop another couple of photographers near me - and someone in the Yard who was taking photos with a professional-looking camera at the interval. So I was lucky..
Other observations about my seat: I didn't have back support, but didn't feel the need, which was handy. Also, I do think you get more legroom if you're not in the front row of a section, because you can stretch your legs so your feet are under the bench in front. If yours is the front row, there's nowhere to go..
And so to the play. The first half is all about Richard and his compatriots (yay!) Lovely mediaeval costumes billow in the wind, the Queen of Jerusalem makes an appearance in a dazzling outfit, and it all feels terribly exotic, with the incense and all, and rose petals scattered from the Upper Gallery by people in black hooded robes. The act ends at the siege of the castle of Chalus-Chabrol, where some soldiers are musing about why Richard never entered Jerusalem. And then, of course, he's killed (not really a spoiler).
Act II sees him in Purgatory, with his mother, who somehow has the power to see everything that's going to happen in the Middle East for the next 800 years. So we get a potted history, with many famous characters. All that Richard can think, apart from "What the hell is the Soviet Union?!" is "If only I had my time over again, I'd go to Jerusalem." So, before we know it, we're back to relive his story, in modern fatigues, with guns. And to see what he'll do, and how it'll pan out..
I loved it. I'm glad I didn't buy a programme - if you're reasonably familiar with the history of the area, you'll manage the potted history at the beginning of Act II. And it strikes me that the history given in the programme is heavier than what's needed for the play. You don't really need to know everything that happened in the Middle East for the past 800 years. With dates. The play itself is highly political, of course, and as the warning states: This production contains violence, firearms, gunshots, explosions and some politicians. The politicians are indeed scary, and the explosions etc. - which happen in Act II - are quite shocking. Mind you, so is the bell that peals on occasion from the tower above the stage.
There was a lovely, cosy feel to the Globe as the evening drew in and the lights came on, illuminating stage and Yard. Yes, I'd love to come back here again, in the evening especially. Lots, in fact. And I haven't been to the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse yet.. I might just think about bringing my own cushion though, rather than hiring one all the time!
Recommended for history buffs, or Middle East buffs. Runs until the 24th, Saturdays @7.30pm and Sundays @1. Sadly, the What'sOnStage offer code of premium seats for £10, which I availed of, seems to have run its course. Still, there are plenty more seats available for this.
Tomorrow is looking like a film again. Now, since I came to London, and going on the IMDB ratings, as I do, I haven't managed to get below 7.1. Well, if I go to a film tomorrow - and supposing there isn't a seismic shift in ratings - that's gonna change; the highest rated, at the moment - eliminating all those available cheaper online - is Wakolda, at 6.9. It's based on the true story of an Argentinian family that took in Mengele as a lodger without knowing who he was.. and on Tuesday, I'm off to The Roundhouse to see Sinéad O' Connor: the first time I'll have seen her live. Pity I missed the Time Out offer for half price tickets. Ah well.
No comments:
Post a Comment