Today dawned bright and sunny. Although it was rather nippy, I did think it was liable to warm up. I was right, and was to be glad I wore the lightest top I brought..
I started off by trekking the short distance up to the Friedenskapelle in Malbun (again, pictures on FB). Now, the road to Saas starts here, and I had a go at it. Turns out it's better known as the Lisa and Max trail, suitable for kids and with a kids' story laid out on storyboards along it (about Lisa and Max, twins who want to climb the Drei Schwestern. Good luck with that.) "Gentle", they describe the trail as. Well, it goes to show how careful I have to be. I wasn't at the third storyboard before I had to chicken out - it had gotten too steep. It's not a question of stamina or fitness, it's a question of panic attacks. Yes, I encountered many children on this trail - I'm just glad no-one was around as I inched myself back down the slope I'd just been rash enough to climb. Hey, I tried, and now I know.
So I decided to take the bus to Triesenberg and see what there was to do around there - it had looked scenic on the way up. I discovered a new way of travelling - get off if it looks interesting. So I got off at the first stop after the tunnel. As the bus pulled away, the view of the Rhine Valley looked enticing - I crossed the road to get a better look. After snapping a couple of photos, I noticed a path leading over the hill. Ooh! Flat, too! So, naturally, I took it. Turned out to be a doable path leading all the way down to the town. Result!
When I recrossed the bus route, I figured it made more sense to wait for the bus, which was due in 10 minutes. Ah, the advantages of an unlimited bus pass! I got off in the town square, noted a couple of shops that looked promising for buying snacks n such, but were closed for lunch: and decided to try the Hotel Kulm, adjacent to the bus stop, for lunch myself. I was delighted to discover that they did a nice, cheap set menu, and that one of the options was chicken! (That's unusual for this part of the world, and I had just been bemoaning to myself the difficulty of getting chicken.) The price included a decent soup (or salad - I had the soup). The meal itself was nothing special, but quite edible - I wasn't mad about whatever garnish they had on the chicken, so left most of that. A couple of scoops of ice cream finished it off. Really friendly service, too!
Now, I had read about a walk from Triesenberg to Masescha, and that it was "challenging". I said I'd give it a go. It didn't take long for it to get challenging and for me to turn back, but again, now I know - and I was just nicely in time for the bus to Vaduz. I decided to go with plan #3 - walk from Bendern to Schaan along the Rheindamm, the road that runs along the Rhine. So I changed buses in Vaduz and got off at Bendern Post (post office), which I had determined last night was the closest to where I wanted. Wasn't hard to find my way to the Rheindamm, and off I went.
The road runs straight and wide along the border with Switzerland. With trees fringing the road to my left, for most of the way my view was, therefore, of Swiss mountains - and beautiful they were! Most of the other road users were cyclists. There was the odd lorry - it isn't a major thoroughfare, but some businesses have entrances on that road. Indeed, at one point, I came across a mini-airstrip: turned out to be the Lichtensteiner model airplane association! With their own little airstrip, aww. There were also a few roller-bladers. I was the only walker.
It became apparent why this was the case. It's a lovely road, with great views - but it's quite long, very flat and straight, and the views don't change. It makes more sense to travel it quicker than walking pace. That sun I'd noticed first thing in the morning was oppressive, too. And although the guide to the walk says there are benches - they're only at the beginning and end of this stretch. I did make use of them, and it was very pleasant to sit there, with a cool breeze coming off the water. I could've used some more of them.
Especially when lunch began to talk to me. Yes, something I had in the Hotel Kulm disagreed with me - and dramatically. I was just lucky it didn't strike properly until I was nearly in Schaan. As it was, my entry to Schaan was rather stressed, as I frantically searched for a toilet. I didn't find one, but was lucky enough to find the main street into town, with buses that would take me to the station, where there must be a toilet! Checking the timetables, I figured, with one due in 5 minutes, I had better just wait for it - and I did. When we disembarked - not nearly quickly enough for me, and delayed by rush-hour traffic - I had a little bit of a search to find a loo. I wasn't familiar with the station, which is very avant-garde, with all facilities contained in a circular construction. I could've wept for joy when I located the toilet.
The toilet merits some description. It's as avant-garde as the station itself. When you enter, you're faced with a large, stainless steel basin with a hole in the bottom. The toilet seat is suspended from a steel bar above, and must be physically lowered for use. Fair enough. It lowers to just the right position, and you use the toilet as normal. Toilet paper is to the side. When you raise the seat again after you finish, it springs back into its out-of-service position and the toilet flushes automatically. There is no hand basin - you wash your hands over the toilet. There's a semi-normal looking tap to the side - push it to get soap. There's a button below that. Push to get a jet of water from the spout, under that again. To the left, a vent with another button under it. Push for warm air. After a minute or so, as I was preparing to leave, the toilet flushed again - doubtless to clear the soap away! V space-age.
I got the bus to Vaduz, and waited for my connecting bus. I had hoped to buy a snack for the evening - I suspected I wasn't going to be eating much more today - but there was nothing around Vaduz Post. The next bus only went to Triesenberg, with the bus all the way to Malbun coming half an hour later. So I figured I'd get the bus to Triesenberg and use the time I spent waiting there to have a scout around that shop I'd seen at lunchtime, which had been closed. Well, what a find! Finally, a decent shop - the nearest to where I'm staying. All necessities, including many varieties of Swiss chocolate. I'll be back.. But you know, for all of its lack of shops, I'm still glad to be staying where I am. I definitely found the most scenic corner of the country, and felt happy as the bus climbed up here this evening.
Tomorrow, on balance, I think Eschen looks worth a look. I do like to explore the further reaches of the country - make use of that travel pass!
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