A perplexed train conductor was pointed to him when he came to check tickets - yes, that guy at the end had them all. But, passing through snowy landscapes, we arrived safely at Regensburg station. Where he set off at a fair pace into town, accompanied by a large chunk of the group. However, he'd whetted Helen's and my appetites with talk of a "romantic Christmas market", so that's where we headed. I was also interested in talk of the Thurn & Taxis palace, which seemed to be nearby - well, wouldn't you know it, the market is in the palace grounds! Awesome - and we were just in time for the opening time of 12. In the queue, we got talking to a couple of Americans behind us.
Several kiosks were open when they did let us in, so it didn't take long to process us. Cheaper during the week, but Sundays the standard entrance fee is €10. A pathway of burning torches - which must look amazing in the dark - leads to the market, which lines the outside of the palace and fills the central courtyard. Stalls here are covered in branches - and in bitter cold (it surely felt several degrees colder here than it had in Nürnberg), braziers and open fires stave off the cold. Never too far from a glühwein stall, of course!
(Lots) more photos here. Handmade crafts abound - and while they're not generally cheap, the whole looks absolutely gorgeous. Also, the entrance fee deters some, so it's not too crowded. We did the full tour - and, frozen, repaired to the courtyard for lunch, which was burgers with sausages in 'em. I do prefer the tradition hereabouts of making them with crusty buns - they don't fall apart, like they do in regular, soft buns. Some creatures weren't so bothered by the cold - beside the alpaca stall, we met the source material!
When we finally tore ourselves away from this market, a couple of hours had passed. Highly recommended - runs till the 23rd. We didn't have far to go for our next attraction - the Basilica St. Emmeram, right next door, is the palace church, and is free. It was part of the original monastery that became the palace. And it is simply stunning:
There is so much artistic detail here that we spent ages, just gaping at the side chapels, the artwork - whatever we could find. When we finally dragged ourselves away, you'll never guess; it was snowing! And it just got heavier - as we wended our way to the cathedral, it became really dense, really cold. Finally, barely able to see where we were going, we decided to church-hop our way back to the station, stopping in at churches as we went, to get warm!
Once we finally, gratefully, made it to the station, I needed the loo. Now, the station is attached to a shopping centre, but, it being a Sunday, it was closed. So I had to go in the station cafe - which had a key system that turned out unnecessarily complicated. You had to ask at the counter for the key - which cost €1 - which is ok, except that people didn't always bring them back, and I got into a confused argument with a little old lady who'd gone in before me, and ended up with two, after someone had left one behind! How that was my problem is a mystery to me..
After that, we fancied a snack and a sit-down, so headed across the bridge to the shopping centre, at the edge of which a cafe was open. We sat at the edge of the seating area, in the dark, where we ordered cake, hot chocolate, and coffee. Which was really nice. And we might have had a second round of drinks, except that they never came back with our order. Never mind, we had a distraction..
Someone in the group had found out that our flight, due to leave that night, had been cancelled! She posted it to our WhatsApp group - it took Ryanair some more hours to notify us. Cue much confusion, as people tried to figure out what was happening, and what was best to do next. It didn't help that we couldn't get decent internet reception on the train back to Nürnberg - cue more confusion, then, back in the hotel lobby. Helen's car was back in Stansted, so she needed to fly back; a few others had flights booked to other destinations, and were fine - it was only Stansted, which had had snow showers, that was affected. The earliest flights we could get were on Tuesday, though. Our organiser stayed with his aunt and uncle, locally, that night, and took the train next day. The most epic journey, however, was to be taken by those who decided to take the bus, all the way back to London! Leaving at 9 that night, it was to arrive at 4.30 the following afternoon..
Well, once that was sorted, we who were flying on Tuesday turned our minds to accommodation - the Ibis had rooms for that night, but not Monday. A quick search of booking.com got Helen and me a room in the Hampton by Hilton, just up the road, at a very reasonable price. We might have stayed a little closer, at the Novotel, but they didn't have twin rooms available. And so, up the road we trudged, in the slush. Some of the remaining group - those who weren't heading off - were off to Barfüßer again, but I hadn't been greatly impressed with it, and anyway, we were tired after all that, and didn't want to go far for dinner. Without much choice in the Hampton, we headed down to the Novotel's Italian restaurant - and then back for a very peaceful night's sleep. A lovely, quiet room, I must say - and a greater choice of electrical sockets that we'd had in the Ibis!
And so, we got an extra couple of days in Nürnberg - not to be sneezed at. More to follow..
Of course, as a result, I missed a couple of things I'd booked; on Monday - having taken the day off work - I was booked for the Barbershop Chronicles. At the National. And on Tuesday, I booked a Funzing talk - Interviews With a Serial Killer, courtesy of London Speaks Sessions and LDN Talks @ Night. For which, with their new loyalty scheme, I earned £10 credit! Not so shabby.. But it wasn't very Christmassy, all the same, and I subsequently booked an evening at Keats House, with London Social Detours. Where they explored Christmas in the Romantic era - ahh! Sadly, neither was now possible.
Back at last, and on Wednesday, my last visit of the year to Sands Films - finally advertised on Meetup, through the World Music Meetup, TunedIn London had a concert by Plastikes Karekles, a Greek group. The friend I've been persuading to go to the Crick Crack events had suggested that night for a nostalgic trip, by some of us, to Top Secret - I would rather do that, but unfortunately he couldn't get anyone else to agree, so we postponed the idea.
On Thursday, my friends who came to Soho a while ago were headed to Wilton's Music Hall, for something called The Box of Delights. And for once, I let them decide for me, and went myself too.
On Friday, my final trip of the year to the Crick Crack Club - Jan Blake was performing Masters of Hex at the British Library. Along with Ben Haggerty and TUUP. Same friend going with me as did on the 29th, and Helen too - and the same lunatic. Who would probably avoid us, and good enough for her. Yesterday, I flew back to Ireland for Christmas - a good chance to get my head together, with everything that's going on!
Flying back to London on the 2nd of January, and on the 3rd I've booked to see Stewart Lee at Leicester Square Theatre. Determinedly not in the front two rows - not for a comedy show!
On the 4th of January, I'm back with Up in the Cheap Seats (Happy New Year to them!), who are off to see Hanna, at the Arcola.
On the 5th of January, I thought Time Out threw me a curiously interesting event - so I'm going on this Space Descent VR experience, at the Science Museum. I'll have to leave work early for it - there are timed slots, and it consists of wearing goggles, and living the experience of a descent to earth, with the astronaut Tim Peake narrating in your ears.
On the 6th of January, Crick Crack is back! Happy New Year to them too. The story of When Time Began is being told at King's Place. Creation myths. And wouldn't you know it, we're being treated to a host of performers - the husband and wife team, Emily and Nick Hennessy, and co-founder of the club, the amazing Ben Haggerty. Accompaniment provided by the wonderful musician, Sheema Mukherjee.
On the 7th of January, another Happy new Year - this time to Let's Do This, who are off to an art exhibition. Gilbert & George: the Beard Pictures and their Fuckosophy. Sorry, but that is the title. Showing at the White Cube Gallery. Honestly, but for the group that's hosting, I wouldn't bother..
And finally, more art on the 8th of January, which I'll probably enjoy more. I'm taking the day off to go see Reflections at the National Gallery - an exhibition of Pre-Raphaelites, which, with a free day, I can peruse at my leisure. As inspired by a walk by the excellent London Literary Walks - roll on the summer, and a return of those!
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