We passed through Cork city on the way north, but didn't stop. Honestly, I spent nearly two years living there, and while, of course, you could find something to do if you had to - still I couldn't think of a single thing worth stopping for as we were passing through. We did stop in Blarney though, parking in the famous Woollen Mills (largest Irish shop in the world). It's walking distance from there to the famous castle, although - unlike in times past - you can't even enter the grounds without buying a ticket. Which we didn't do - that infamous stone they get the tourists to kiss is (a) hard to get to, involving a climb and being held as you bend over backwards above a sheer drop, and (b) simply part of an ancient urinal. Instead, we meandered along the railing, through the car park till we got a bit of a view:
On our way back to the Woollen Mills, we stopped off at a gift shop to the side - where we made more purchases than in all the time we subsequently spent in the "largest Irish shop in the world". And let not the Blarney Chocolate Factory be forgotten - a little shop at the side of the road, it's a treasure chest of sweet delights. Purchases were made there, too. For the woollen mills, however - although we walked their length, and marvelled at their goods: well, partly the problem was that, despite the break in the weather, it was still hot, and woollens just didn't do it for us..
Not hungry enough for lunch yet, we drove on - by the time we got to Charleville, we were hungry enough, and from my time driving to and from Cork on this road, I knew the East Ocean Chinese restaurant was worth a stop. The town was busy, and we were lucky to get parking - we were also lucky with our timing, as they were close to closing for lunch. I'd only been here for dinner previously, and I see for lunch they close the back section, and have a simple, one-page menu of the most popular choices. Fair enough, and we ordered - and were simply, quickly, and satisfyingly fed. We didn't bother with dessert, and afterwards wandered across the road to a curio shop. Where we saw some curious things, but none that tempted us to buy.
Back to my mother's, then, and a few hours to relax before the evening.. we had booked tickets for a banquet at nearby Bunratty Castle. First, mind, a last dash to Dunnes in Ennis, where Helen had a mind to do a final shop. I instructed her that she had 15 minutes.. and 15 minutes we spent (less, actually, I think). Then a quick drive along the main road, and we found ourselves at Bunratty with 20 minutes to spare. Just nice. As you come from the Ennis direction, the castle - hidden by trees - is on you before you know it; the road curves around the corner of the castle itself.
We continued to the car park, and got out in lashing rain. We found ourselves in the company of a hen party (well, that promised some fun!) and followed them through the entrance, into the gift shop, which wisely stays open till the start of the later performance of the evening. We browsed but didn't buy, ultimately continuing through the folk park to the castle itself, led by young ladies in unwise high heels, rather fetching floral garlands on their heads. They usually have a piper at the entrance, but not in this weather:
Inside, we climbed the spiral staircase (fear not, there's a handrail) to the entrance hall, where folks in medieval garb served us mead, before they took the podium for a brief lecture on the history of the castle, then broke into a madrigal:
(As ever, more pictures here.) Downstairs again to the banqueting hall. We were assigned seats depending on the number in our party, and found ourselves seated decently close to the entertainment:
Seating is on benches at long tables, and you are furnished with a knife and some napkins - otherwise, just a finger bowl and a bowl for drinks. Jugs of white and red wine are provided, and a larger jug of water; all are unlimited for the duration of the meal. The menu is given on the banquet website - despite the description of "spiced parsnip soup" to start, we thought it tasted more of oxtail; this you drink by lifting it to your mouth (very practical, I think). Spare ribs - the ultimate finger food - to follow, along with chicken served with diced vegetables: all easy enough to skewer with the knife, the same you use throughout. The only relaxation of the cutlery rules is when they provide you with a spoon for dessert.
We were fed well enough, although I don't think many managed the full meal before they came to clear away; it's just that bit slower, when you don't have the implements you're used to! And the wine made us very merry, as the entertainments started in earnest, and we joined in a singalong. Finally, we wound our careful way into the night, passing again through the giftshop, where they were still willing to sell us mead. But no, home to bed for us.
The following day was the day of our flight back to London. Flying with Ryanair, we couldn't check in for free until a week beforehand - so we waited until we visited my friend's house, and checked in using her computer. This was just two days before the flight.. now, they obviously fill from the back (hoping you'll pay for a better seat), because when we checked in, as early as possible, for our outbound flight, we were allocated seats in the very back row of the plane. Checking in two days before the flight, however, we were allocated seats all the way up in Row 3! You have been told..
We arrived at Shannon airport in good time, intending to eat before boarding. Unfortunately, Helen had a bag to check, and Ryanair bag drop doesn't open until two hours before flight time - so we ended up getting a meal deal from WH Smith, as the public café closes at 2, it transpires, and the only other option for full meals is past security. When we did eventually get that far, the queue was horrendous, anyway - the Green Army was on the march (and I wished them luck). So we grabbed a table at Zest!, a new food option beside the pub. Well, the pastry I had was good (not as good as that at Kylemore, mind), but I will NEVER again order those lukewarm chips.. ugh.
Finally on the plane, we weren't going anywhere fast - turns out all that rain we'd been missing had fallen on Gatwick instead, where it had knocked a hole in the runway. We did get back eventually.. rather exhausted, rather impressed, rather determined to return and do the bits we'd missed. We did see and do an awful lot during our stay.. we did enjoy ourselves. And we do recommend it!
Next blog post - back to London.
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