So, continuing our Irish odyssey, we had spent the night in Leenane, and after a very nice breakfast, we packed up the car, checked out, and drove a bit down the road, to where they run boat tours. We were in time for the first of the day, and the only ones at the pier as we parked and got our tickets from the lady in the ticket booth. Mind you, our splendid isolation didn't last long once the coach tour arrived.. never mind, we legged it to the viewing deck as soon as we were let on, and secured two good chairs at a vantage point at the rail at the stern:
(More photos here.) It takes 90 minutes, and we were promised a commentary - which did eventually kick in, although so late in our outbound trip that I thought they'd forgotten. There's also a cafe, and you can sit inside if the weather is unpleasant - but this was another glorious day, and we stayed at the rail for the duration. Came in a bit windwept, but never mind - the scenery is spectacular, and along the way we learned how Toraíocht Diarmuid agus Gráinne, the legend of the fleeing lovers, reached its conclusion here, with Diarmuid buried atop one of the Mweelrea Mountains that overlook Ireland's only fjord. We also passed mussel rafts - this is a major fishing area - and one brave soul in a kayak, headed westward towards the ocean, the wind to his back..
Coming ashore, we drove back into the village, where we had in mind to visit a craft shop, and the Leenane Sheep and Wool Centre. It's quite a large operation, with a cafe, an excellent gift shop, and a museum - we weren't yet ready for lunch, but spent some considerable time in the gift shop. When we paid, we also bought tickets for the museum - the guy said the demonstration had already started, but we didn't mind, and were let in. We joined a foreign couple and their little girl, who were watching a lady demonstrate the intricacies of spinning on various different wheels, with various different yarns. (She let the little one have a go, too.) Helen was most taken with the description of the different materials used for dye. And as the demonstration moved onto the looms, we were idly watched through the windows by a flock of assorted sheep, grazing around the back - some very old breeds, including the unusual, self-shedding soay sheep..
And shortly we were on the road again. Sheep, however, continued to figure..
Now, I knew Kylemore Abbey was the next must-see in our direction - I've been there a couple of times before, and figured it was worth a small detour. It was, of course - and this was the first really busy place we came across on our travels. We were lucky to get a space in the car park, and made our way to the abbey:
Yes, it is stunning. Built as a private home in the 19th Century, it played host once to King Edward VII, when he happened by. It was eventually sold to an order of Benedictine nuns, who opened a boarding school. Popular with international students, the school only closed a few years ago, to great sadness, apparently. I can believe it - imagine going to school here!
Anyway, first we had lunch in their cafe - filling, and followed by (for me) the most luscious chocolate éclair I've had in years. Frankly, I'd expect it - they do make their own chocolate here, and the chocolate topping on the éclair was excellent, and obviously homemade. Determinedly leaving the giftshop for later, we headed for the ticket booth - I believe you can get a discount by pre-booking, but never mind..
Past the barrier, you have a choice of two directions. To the left is the Victorian walled garden, with a complimentary shuttle bus - we passed, heading instead for the buildings in the other direction. First comes the main building, gorgeously decorated and furnished, a limited number of rooms open to the public. Pictures at the same link. There are also small exhibits about the convent, and the school.
The buildings further to the right relate to the sad story of the original lady of the manor.. her husband built the estate for her, and they lived a blissful existence, by all accounts, until a fateful family holiday in Egypt left her with dysentery, which killed her at the age of just 45. First you come to the chapel he built in her memory, decorated with marble of different colours, from the different parts of Ireland - and finally, to the little mausoleum, nestled in the woods, in which her remains were cosily laid.
While she lived, she had the most beautiful home.. it's quite spellbinding, and we were sad to leave. But, you know, they weren't going to put us up.. I would have liked to go by Clifden, but we were getting value from each of our stops, which was using up time, so instead we made straight for Galway Bay. From childhood visits, I remembered the Connemara Coast Hotel as a nice one, and, situated in Barna, just outside Galway City, probably better value than continuing all the way there.
..and we made it just before the coach tour checked in! We got a room upstairs - no lift, unfortunately, but lovely decor, and a lovely, homey atmosphere upstairs: lots of alcoves and a reading area with a chessboard (missing some pieces). Our room - although a bit too warm, with no aircon (when would they normally need it?!) had a gorgeous view of the bay, and in the bathroom, the bathmat was rolled up and tied with a pink ribbon (ahh!). We were to discover a couple more minuses - the WiFi was crap, again, and the restaurant has a dress code, so we had to eat in the bar. But hey, we got the last table, the food was good, and later - discovering I'd forgotten to pack shampoo - I also discovered that theirs was excellent! And so to bed, ready for Galway the next day..
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