The only problem with Mansion House is the last time I was there, I got hopelessly lost looking for a bus stop. It's a complicated junction. So I spent ages poring over Streetview until I was sure I had a fair chance of finding the bridge, which you can't see from the station. In the end, I found my way quite easily. You get your first view of the Globe as you cross the bridge..
Yes, it's that little white building, snuggled in amongst all the bigger ones. Takes no time to get to once you're across. I queued for my ticket, noting that both of today's performances were sold out, as were all the tours - I overheard someone inquiring. Of course, as it was pointed out to her, the tours are more restricted in theatre season. Yes, this is a venue you need to plan ahead for! As I mentioned before, the official website was sold out when I looked, and I got my ticket from lovetheatre.
I really arrived too early.. the doors from the ticket office to the theatre don't open until nearer half an hour before showtime. Today, for a 1pm start, they opened at 12.20. At the same time, the ornate iron gates leading directly to the waterfront open - that's for people who already have their tickets. Or, if you want to make a grander entrance, you could go round that way after you collect your tickets. Otherwise, while you're waiting, there's a bar and giftshop, toilets, and somewhere to sit.
When you're let through into the "piazza" - the area right in front of the theatre - there are bars, an usher going around with a tray of goodies, and a cushion-hire kiosk. Cushions are strongly recommended, by the way, although you can bring your own if you'd prefer - seating is all on wooden benches. I asked about seat backs, but she asked to see my ticket, and said that I probably wouldn't need one - I was in the front row of my section (yay!) and could lean on the balcony. Also, there was a kind of railing behind me, that I could lean against. So I just took a cushion, for £1.
As I waited for the theatre doors to open, I noted the names on all the plaques on the ground - sponsors, I take it. I see Prince Edward has one, over by the theatre wall - good man! Lots of people with the Shakespeare name as well - they probably felt somewhat obliged! Finally, we were let in, and the nice lady told those of us with Upper Gallery tickets to keep going all the way to the top. I was actually the very first in my section. As we passed the Middle Gallery, on our way up, an usher dashed out to us, calling frantically, "Hold on! Hold on!" We assured her that we were headed further up.. It wasn't a difficult climb, anyway. The stairs are wide, and flights short - there are just a lot of them. But not a problem for people with fear of heights.
There were only two rows in my bay, and yes, I was in the front. Second from the end, before the divider from the next section. I had a feeling that no-one would come to the seat inside me, and so it proved - I guessed that lovetheatre had a pair of seats, of which I'd bought one, and they couldn't sell the other. Good job! the legroom is snug in this front row, and in the Upper Gallery, the railings are bunched tighter together than in the Middle Gallery, so you can't stick your legs through them as you can there. So, like last night, I spent the show twisted to the side. It is great to have the balcony to lean on though, and yes, in the Upper Gallery there are safety railings in front of each of the rows behind the front, so that gives you something to lean on. I noticed that, in the Middle Gallery sections to the side, there were benches with backs. I also noticed a wheelchair there, so the Middle Gallery is wheelchair-accessible.
Well, I do love lovetheatre, they gave me a great seat..
Not dead centre, but almost, with a great view of the stage. Note, in this shot, the side doors for the actors' entrances and exits, and the musicians' gallery. Below it is a pair of large double doors, for the entrance of larger set pieces - closed at the moment. You can take photos only until the actors come on stage. Standing tickets, in the "yard", are just £5, if you have the stamina. Note also that if it rains, umbrellas are not permitted in the yard, but they do sell rain macs. The stage and seating are covered. As the afternoon progressed, it heated up considerably, to the point where it became uncomfortable to lean on the balcony - the wood was too hot. But we did get some welcome cooling breezes.
Well, this is the place to see Shakespeare! The acoustics are terrific, although the actors did stop wryly from time to time to let a plane or helicopter pass overhead, until they could be heard again. Still, they have an easier time of it than in The Scoop, where they don't have such great acoustics! As the show progressed, the odd bird swooped in to sit above the stage, or on the roof above the galleries. Don't forget - this venue, and ones like it, are where his plays were designed to be performed. Certainly, the way Antony and Cleopatra was played today was perfect, with plenty of musical diversion, actresses flirting with men in the audience around the stage, stage effects including very realistic blood bags, and some dramatic stunts with men swooping in on ropes. The interval finishes with a soothsayer gutting, and reading the entrails of, a goat - and I cannot say that it wasn't a real goat, it certainly looked it! So, something to watch if you haven't gone for a drink. All good fun, just as intended.
Although a tragedy, much of this is played as a comedy, and all the better for it. Cleopatra, in particular, is great fun, flouncing around the stage, making the most of being Queen of Egypt. The musical accompaniment is fantastic, and despite the long running time, it's an experience that never drags. I highly recommend seeing anything here, of course - as I left, I looked around, and recognised sights I'd seen on the tour I took, years ago: and I remembered how jealous I'd been that this was a place you were supposed to come to see a play! and they were sold out that day, too. Do try to get to see this - see the website for details of dates of pre- and post-show discussions. Runs until 24th August.
I thought about visiting the toilet before I left, but the queue was too long and it wasn't urgent. I hadn't had time to eat much before I left, so food was next on the agenda. Stay well away from The Swan, adjoining the theatre, for food, unless you have very deep pockets! However, there are three restaurants on the way to Southwark Bridge. I've eaten in the Pizza Express before, and it's good, with a great view of St. Paul's - but I ate in Pizza Express yesterday, so fancied a change. There's also a Greek place - but I've seen Zizzi's restaurants so many times and never tried them, I thought I'd try that. What a mistake, and what a pity, after such a great day! I was quite quickly seated, facing the river - although the view isn't as nice as at Pizza Express, it's ok; you can watch the boats, you get a good view of a fine old river-facing building across the way. The pinot grigio I had was lovely, the garlic bread was excellent. But for my main course, I had, essentially, chicken and pasta in a tomato sauce. Frankly, I'd have expected better from a supermarket microwaveable meal. It was pretty tasteless. And what little chicken there was, was obviously dark meat. As for the mushrooms I was supposed to have - I think I spied one. Well, half of one. And when I wanted the bill, there wasn't a hope of grabbing anyone! When I did, it took her so long to get it that I asked someone else - finally ended up with two bills! No, I won't be back - as I told them in the survey they invited me to complete.
Never mind.. tomorrow, what's coming up is a play called Holes, at the Arcola Tent (ooh, they have a tent!) It's about survivors of a plane crash - topical. I do hope the weather is cool enough not to put me off..!
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