Now, I'd never been to this church before, but had heard it was near Barbican. O great. A trek right across town. Google Maps suggested I walk from Blackfriars - but when I checked out the walk, although it wasn't too long, it was that bit complicated. See, I love the City, with its complicated, winding, narrow streets and buildings crowded in together - but it can be hard to navigate, if you don't know the way. So I said nuts - closest station is Barbican, I'll head there.
The walking directions given on the church website were horrendously obscure. "The only step-free access from Cloth Fair is through the Elizabethan gateway from West Smithfield." "Access from Cloth Fair through the churchyard is via a steep set of steps without a handrail." "Sometimes, the North door on Cloth Fair is open and this gives access to a steep set of steps, with a handrail." Ay-ay.. could I determine what they meant from Streetview? Not a bit of it. I printed a map in case I got lost on my way from Barbican, and decided the only thing for it was to go and look for myself.
What with Barbican being right on the other side of the Tube network from me, there are several options for getting there. My preferred way is the District Line straight to Edgware Road, then change to either of the other two lines running east to Barbican. Handily enough, a train pulled into Edgware Road just as I got to the platform, and I was in Barbican without too much delay. Talk about pollution in the City though - every time the train doors opened, east of Edgware Road, the stench of diesel nearly choked me. From Barbican, it was an easy walk to the church - turn right out of the station, take the next right, then the next left. Then the second right, onto Middle Street. You can't miss the church after that.
Middle Street soon becomes the aforementioned Cloth Fair, a streetname doubtless stemming from there having been a cloth market here - this was always a thriving merchant community. I walked down Cloth Fair, figuring that since it had been mentioned so prominently in the directions, the entrance must be along here somewhere. I passed what was probably the North door, then came to the churchyard, and an open gate in the fence. Ok.. I passed through, and walked to the other side. When I got there, I could see what looked like an entrance door, at a lower level - they'd explained that this is a mediaeval church, and the ground level was lower in those days. Cunningly placed benches along the edge of the upper-level churchyard prevented people from falling over the edge, as well as giving them somewhere to sit. I figured there must be steps, and sure enough, there were - the aforementioned steep steps without handrail were at the far end.
So I made my way down. And since, for once, I was early - they'd only just opened the doors - I had a bit of a wander. I figured I'd found two of the three mentioned entrances - where was this gateway? I wandered to the right, into West Smithfield, under an arch, and saw the gateway properly; I'd never have recognised it as such from Streetview:
And then I went in. She ticked me off a list, and I made my way to the Cloisters café:
A pair of rather frazzled, but very nice, ladies were dealing with a large crowd - it was pretty sold out. After a bit of a queue, I checked that I could pay with card. I could. The poor girl was doing her best, pouring wine for two of us simultaneously, and it was just funny to watch. So when I had to move to the side to pay, because the card reader was attached to a cable that didn't stretch far enough - I just laughed.
There wasn't really anywhere to sit, it being so crowded - so I plonked my things on the piano at the entrance, and while I drank my wine I read the history panels on the wall. Well, it's absolutely fascinating! Built as a priory in 1123, it's the oldest surviving parish church in London. It only just survived the Great Fire of London, which stopped just down the road from it. And of course, it's in the area of Smithfield, which saw so much throughout the ages..
I didn't have long to drink my wine, and gulped down most of it - the house was open, and I wanted to get a good seat. So I moved through to the main part of the building. Oh, it's gorgeous, all that exposed stone..
I was so glad my phone camera lasted - the battery was nearly out, and it just had enough power to snap these shots and upload them. Anyway, I took a seat in the front of the three rows of seats that had been laid out on either side of the nave. There were piles of blankets at the entrance, in case you felt chilly - but I was ok. Mind you, if I went again, I'd take one as a cushion - the seats aren't upholstered.
And we were off! It's great, I hadn't even seen Richard II before, and here I was in one of the best settings for it. How atmospheric, the actors in mediaeval costumes moving through the stone church, sumptuous costumes inches away from us, sweeping along the side aisles behind the stone pillars. This church has apparently been used in several film and tv productions - justifiably. It was enchanting. And I have to give equal credit to the theatre company - they played up the mediaeval atmosphere, starting and ending the performance with Miri It Is - it's years since I heard that. Moody, mediaeval-appropriate music played before, and at the interval. And at start and end, again, the actors performed a few steps of a minuet.
Not to mention the excellent casting - Richard II is as weedy and incompetent as you'd expect, Henry Bolingbroke heftier and brooding. I do have one bone to pick - but it's with Shakespeare's interpretation, which takes liberties with the truth in one respect: the Queen was only 10 years old when Richard was deposed (6 years old when he married her) - so any suggestion of a sexual relationship between them is a bit creepy. But that's just for those of us who pay attention to these things..
This is a terrific production, very highly recommended for anyone with a love of Shakespeare. Or of history. Running as part of a Death of Kings series, alternating with performances of Edward II. Only two performances left of Richard II - this Saturday, and the following Friday. Go see..
Leaving drinks tonight for someone from the office, and tomorrow I'm back to Ireland for the weekend. Heading to a concert in St. Mary's Cathedral in Limerick on Saturday, part of the Limerick Sings choral festival.
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