Play: King Charles III

I was dying to see King Charles III. I've always had a fascination with royalty. Anyway, I didn't get a chance during its sold-out run at the Almeida - but now it's switched to the West End, and a while ago I got my chance, and booked a ticket for tonight, at Wyndham's Theatre, with a Time Out offer (since expired) of a Band C (the cheapest) ticket for £12.50 instead of the normal £17. Some Band C seats have restricted view, but I decided to take a chance.

So off I went this evening. This is the theatre just to the left of Exit 1 of Leicester Square Tube station, and I turned left immediately upon exiting, to be faced with a large crowd and a frazzled doorman, telling people to enter by the middle door if they had their tickets, and the side door to collect them at the box office. I don't think he had an option for buying tickets - I think, based on what I saw inside, that they were sold out.

I had a printed confirmation of my purchase - handy for them at the box office, they were frazzled too. Turned out I was in the Grand Circle. Also turned out that's not the top level, which is the balcony. Cool! So I climbed the stairs - which became ever narrower - and took my seat, which I have to say was an excellent one - towards the centre, no obstruction to my view - apart from the very front of the stage being cut off. I had a look around, and this theatre has very good sightlines - hardly any seats have real obstructions, I think. There are no central columns - the only barriers to a perfect view might be the railing at the edge of the balcony - which would be a slight imposition - and perhaps the ceiling overhang, which might spoil the view from the very back few rows. Certainly, I was delighted with my position - and for £12.50, too. Not a person there spent less, unless they got the ticket as a present - but I had a better seat than many. Decent legroom too.

Right then. This play starts with the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II. The stage is supposed to be the interior of a palace - but hardly Buckingham Palace; the bare stone walls are more reminiscent of the Tower. The cast troops on, all dressed in black - the predominant costume colour for most of the play. They're all holding burning church candles. And they're singing the Agnus Dei. A live chamber orchestra accompanies them from one of the boxes. Let me tell you, when they break into song - and they do, a few times - it's spine-tingling.

We soon recognise some familiar faces. Charles doesn't really look like his namesake, but it doesn't take long to recognise him, and by extension, Camilla. My gosh though, there's no problem recognising Kate, with her trademark glossy mane (a wig, I wonder?) and Harry, with his ginger mop. William looks reasonably the part, but is helped along by his costume in the opening scene, which is identical to one we've seen - white shirt inside dark sweater. Well done, the casting director! William should've been a bit balder, though. We even get the ghost of Diana, with her trademark sideways step and downwards gaze, creating havoc as usual.

Well, the story is as follows: Charles no sooner takes the throne than he's confronted with a bill, presented to him by the Prime Minister of the day, that, in all conscience, he can't sign. O dearie me! See, the bill can't come into force without his signature - although there's no constitution, this is all based on tradition. Consternation! Is the throne toothless? Can it have no influence at all? Should it have? As the play progresses, each member of the family must define his or her role. And some of their decisions are indeed shocking.

I won't give the story away, but the audience's reaction was interesting. One act of defiance by Charles saw a member of the audience, seated in the balcony, clap loudly. Another plot twist heard a gasp from the stalls - followed by everyone else laughing at the gasp. Oh, and it ends with a coronation. Closet royalist that I am, it brought a tear to the eye as they processed onstage in their coronation robes. Gorgeous.

I'm highly biased, but this is a stirring production, whatever your feelings on the monarchy. Well, unless your feelings include absolute disgust - but then, why would you go to this? :-) Booking until 29 November - and booking is highly advised; I didn't see any free seats.

Of course, it lets out at the same time as all the other local theatres - so the Tube was packed. Here's a top Tube trip - on a crowded platform, aim for either end of the platform. Most people congregate at the middle - very few at the ends. I went to the end of the platform that corresponded to the back of the train, and can testify that there were plenty of seats in the last two coaches. Makes a huge difference.

So! My friends arrive tomorrow. Frankly, we have more on the itinerary than we'll ever manage, but on the list for tomorrow are Notting Hill, the V&A, The Mall, the ICA bookshop, Trafalgar Square, and a ghost walk. Well, y'know, it's better to have fallback options than not! Tourist London, here we come..