Yesterday, Ken's Walks and Social Events (and its sister group, London Art, Comedy & Walks) were on a Christmas lights tour. Now, after past experience with the walks organised by this group, I'll never darken their doors again. However, a Christmas lights walk sounded good - and I didn't get to one at all last year! So I had a browse - and came up with a pay-what-you-want walk by Free Tours by Foot London. Starts in Covent Garden. Ivan decided to come to this one.
With our office move, we were supposed to leave work by 4 - but that was because our receptionist wanted to give us our new passes, and wanted everyone to get them before she left for the day. Except they never arrived - so, change of plan: we show up to the new building with our old passes as ID on Monday! Doh. Anyway, for yesterday, this meant there wasn't such pressure to be out of the office - but when the packers arrived and started to size up the goods around me, I decided it was time to leave. Just as well - I had to take my laptop home and get cash en route, then schlep off to Covent Garden. Even without eating, I barely got there in time!
We sure got great directions - opposite the Tube station, at the junction of Long Acre & Neal Street, where there are three trees. Mind you, the best indicator of all was the top hat our guide wore, which was festooned with lit fairy lights. As was the thick, tinsel necklace he wore. (We'd also been sent a picture of these things.) And as the crowd grew and grew around us (Fridays are busy, of course), he ticked off names in his notebook. Unfortunately, Ivan got sidetracked with work, and though I said he could join at any point (it being pay-what-you-want), he said he'd just meet me for drinks at the end. With these numbers, it didn't matter - lots of +1s cancelled, we still had plenty.
Our guide - an out-of-work Irish actor, as he explained - was hilarious throughout, with a touch of Jim Carrey about him. First stop was back to Covent Garden, which I'd passed through on the way - I'd never known there was a miniature ice rink there, sponsored by Tiffany's! But we were headed for our first stop - a stall where you could buy mulled wine or cider. With the huge queue that formed, no wonder she gave him a hug and kiss! and let him steal a gingerbread man and a brownie as he went on his way, having regaled us with tales about the origins of Christmas, as illustrated on the tablet he carried with him. (Very nice mulled wine, too.)
Our passage of the piazza - where he tried to make a stop, to chat about the enormous tree - was foiled by a nearby busker (and a laugh-inducing reaction from our guide), so he took us somewhere quieter before leaving Covent Garden for nearby streets.
Some of these streets I've seen on previous tours, but Carnaby Street always does something different. And he had plenty of interesting stories for us - for instance, he made an intriguing claim that George IV's portraits were doctored, giving him larger shoulders than he had, to balance his enormous girth. Pity that made his head look so small..
Our second stop was in the Bavarian Market, which I was delighted about - he gave us nearly 15 minutes to wander around, which gave me a welcome opportunity to grab something to eat. Same organisers as Winter Wonderland, but on a much smaller scale. Caveat: if you buy alcohol on the premises, you can't take it out of the market - you must drink it there. There are bag checks.
At several points on the walk, he ran across people he knew, who greeted him with a friendly high-five - a nice touch. A useful part of the trip was a shortcut through Kingly Court - gee, I never knew this centre for restaurants was here! And naturally enough, we finished up with the spectacular decorations of Mayfair - they mightn't change, but they are gorgeous.
He passed the hat around at the end, and I was delighted to give him £20, more than I ordinarily pay for a guided walk. But then, he had an impressive number of stories I hadn't heard before, and was consistently entertaining. Mind you, the "suggested amount" in the email, where it's mentioned that others charge £35 a head, is having a laugh - nobody charges anything like that: and with the number of walks I've been on, I should know!
It started to rain just as the walk was coming to an end - Ivan had taken the precaution of standing under a canopy outside the Hard Rock Cafe. He explained to me that a couple of his friends were having drinks, and had invited him - or we could stay local, just the two of us. Well, I said, why not join them? Everywhere around there would be jammed anyway. So we ended up getting the Tube to Arsenal, and schlepping through the rain to the Bank of Friendship. Unusual name - and unusually late opening! Still, not late enough for us - we ended up round at their place, with Ivan and his musical mate jamming until the sun came up. Lovely, hospitable people - would be delighted to see them again.
Got the bus home - mercifully, it was a gentler journey than the last time I took a bus after drinking too much! So, I got to bed at about 10am today.. Slept till 5: so much for my grand plan of getting anything done today! This evening, I was headed with Up in the Cheap Seats (UITCS) to the Orange Tree, for Candida, by Shaw.
Now, the last couple of times I've been out here, I've had to take the train - which is much more expensive than Tube. So, Tube was what I determined to use today. Unfortunately, it'd have taken too long to take it all the way from Liverpool Street, which is closest to me - instead, I walked to Monument to take it from there. And wouldn't you know it - the tunnel allowing access from the street was closed! probably because of flooding. I had to walk to Bank at street level, enter the station there, and walk all the way back underground! By now, I had a sinking feeling I was going to be late - should've taken the train.
It took so long for any District Line train to come that when one did, I took it - even though it had the wrong destination. Changed at Earls Court - and contrary to what the boards originally said, the information soon changed to show a Richmond train! Hallelujah - so, if I'd just let another couple of trains pass at Monument, I'd have got the right train next. And a seat - it was jammed. But I did get a seat after a couple of stops.
Finally arriving at the theatre, I found it locked. Boo. But as I descended the stairs again, someone came to the door to ask whether he could help. I explained that I'd bought a ticket, but was late - he showed me to the upstairs room, where I could watch the first half hour on a tv screen. There are West End venues that don't do that - the Old Vic, for instance! He pulled up a chair for me and everything. And after half an hour, as promised, he came to show me to an inconspicuous upstairs seat - I could take my own at the interval. Exceptional customer service!
So, this is a comedy about a young man, down on his luck, who comes to stay with an idealistic pastor and his wife - and falls for the wife, in a big way. As he and the husband clash over who would provide a better life for her, she takes them both by surprise with her decision as to which she'll choose - mainly because of her reasoning!
I have to say, it makes a nice change to see a period piece, played in the period in which it's set, and more particularly in period costume! Nothing wrong with a modern conversion - Cyrano de Bergerac is a case in point - but it is refreshing to see something traditional, for a change. And while I didn't really feel that the humour had passed the test of time, it is an interesting study, well-played, of Shaw's interpretation of the nature of marriage at the time, and what each spouse represented to the other. Oh, and that young man is annoyingly earnest.. I couldn't have lasted very long in his company myself. Runs till the 18th of next month.
The Tube back afterwards was much simpler - and quicker to go all the way to Liverpool Street, at this late hour. But would you believe it, now I couldn't walk underground from Monument to Bank (!) and had to head over at street level. Which was now possible, if not convenient - there was a deluge as I did so. And the Central Line was packed, as usual - happily, I was only going one stop.
Tomorrow, my last visit of the year to the Crick Crack Club - Emily Hennessy is telling the Ramayana at the British Museum. Oh, and I'd completely forgotten that was on when I booked with North London Friends for a carol concert at St. James' Muswell Hill, followed by drinks at the John Baird. Sounds lovely - but I wouldn't realistically make both, and I've cancelled. With such a huge group going, I doubt I'll be missed. So that makes tonight my last Meetup of the year - I fly back to Ireland for Christmas on Monday.
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!
..and I'm off again next month, flying back to London on the 5th. On the 6th, I will start as I mean to go on, with UITCS at the Almeida for the Duchess of Malfi.
On the 7th, I'm off to the Opera House, for the Royal Ballet's production of Coppélia - one I've never seen.
And on the 8th, the RSC's production of Measure for Measure, at the Barbican. Set in decadent 1900s Vienna.
Today, I arranged to have lunch with Helen - she's squeezing in a trip to London before the infamous strikes start, tomorrow! We arranged to eat at Bistro1, and booked a table. Now, when I went to book, they advertised a Groupon voucher for a meal for two - great, except when I phoned, I was told it wasn't valid in December! Never said anything about that on the voucher. So I've got a refund on the voucher, and they said they'd inform the restaurant that it was no longer valid. Meantime, poor Ivan was out of town this week for work and missing all the fun - and so, the other day, on the train back from a stay with the family, he floated the idea of an all-day social, some weekend. Starting today. I explained to him that I was seeing Helen today - "Bring her!" sez he. Helen was ok with them joining us, so he and another arranged to meet us.
..Unfortunately, both came down with the flu, or something similar, and we were back down to two again. What the hey. What with all the WhatsApping, I was delayed - and wouldn't you know it, the buses are all experiencing problems and diversions again. Plus, I had to change my coat when I saw it spitting rain outside, just as I was to leave - now, THAT wasn't forecast! Anyway, what with all that delay, the only realistic option for getting there at 1pm was to take the Central Line - which, for once, was manageable. Why, I even got a seat...!
Getting off at Tottenham Court Road, it occurred to me that it's a long time since I did so. Nice decor. Terribly complicated to figure your way out of. I needed to head down Charing Cross Road - so I should have taken the Tottenham Court Road exit. NOT the Charing Cross Road exit - unless you want some doorway right nearby - because your access to Charing Cross Road is completely cut off by the hoarding that's been there for years, blocking the pavement! (Crossrail works, I believe.)
Well, I made it eventually, just about on time - she was delayed, and I decided to head straight in, it being too cold to stand outside. I then completely confused the guy by saying my booking was earlier than it was - my head was all over the place - and he completely missed the bit about there now being half the number of people. Never mind, he showed me to a table directly opposite the door - so, easily visible as you come in - and gave me four menus. And while I was waiting, I ordered a bottle of white.
A basket of bread and butter kept me going till Helen arrived, full of stories of gangs of people headed to Winter Wonderland - definitely a good idea to go midweek, if you can. We chose pretty quickly, ordered, were served pretty quickly. I had deep-fried brie and beef bourgignon, she had calamari and fish n chips. And we were well-served - for my part, I have to say, the bourgignon sauce was delicious. Ice cream for both of us, with a choice of flavours - my chocolate unexpectedly came with chocolate chips! And including the bottle of wine, three courses for two people, for just over £50 including service, isn't bad value - not least for central London, you think?
Afterwards, we wended our way down to Covent Garden - heading into pretty much every chocolate shop, and every tea shop, en route..
When we'd fought off enough crowds (including in what is apparently the largest stockist of Moomin merchandise in the world), we headed for restorative drinks in the nearest Caffe Nero. Where we were lucky to get seats - and luckier when a couple vacated the winged chairs by the window, and I legged it over there while Helen queued to order! Yes, a lovely bolthole and respite from Christmas madness. And after, our buses left from the same stop, mine coming first. Happy Christmas Helen, roll on the next time!
Tomorrow, ironically, I'm on another Groupon deal - this one seems to be valid, though. I'm headed to & Juliet, a very non-Shakespearian take on the classic heroine, including a pop soundtrack, with Up in the Cheap Seats (UITCS). Running at Shaftesbury Theatre.
On Tuesday, back with North London Friends for Fairview, at the Young Vic.
On Wednesday, back with the Crick Crack Club for a night I'm really looking forward to - Ben Haggarty and Jan Blake again, combined with my favourite, Clare Murphy, and Jordan Campbell, will treat us to a night on the theme Sovereign, at Rich Mix. It's the last in their series called the "alternative tarot", where four storytellers take turns to expand on variations on an archetypal theme, and hold a Q+A after. Unfortunately, Ivan, who would've loved this, is out of town again.
On Thursday, back with UITCS for Three Sisters, at the National. Also signed up with Love London Arts, Theatre, Music & Stuff for this - the last time I tried to integrate the two, it didn't really work! It'll be interesting to see how it goes this time. I'll try to gravitate more towards them this time, as I missed them completely the last time. And then it's back to Ireland for the weekend, again.
Yippee.. Let's Do London - for less! Yippee.. Southwark Playhouse. Yippee.. Hemingway. I don't know exactly how long it took me to decide to book that, when I heard about it - but it would've needed a stopwatch to measure accurately. And when Helen found out about it, she asked whether she could come too.. so I +1'ed her, and she said she'd come up earlier in the day and we could do other stuff.
She promised not to get me out of bed too early, and indeed she didn't. And I was dressed by the time she texted to say she was on the train to Waterloo. Still, I somehow managed to get slightly delayed, and was only in Vauxhall by the time she texted to say she'd arrived. We'd arranged to meet under the clock - well, I found that without too much strife, although it was a bit of a trek from the platform, since I came in right at the end..
She had business in Millbank first - which didn't take very long, and afterwards, we'd decided to walk up by the river to find lunch (brunch, for me). It was a gorgeous, sunny day - a real first taste of summer, and we enthusiastically took photos: check out mine and hers. Didn't take very long to walk up to Villiers Street - despite the crowds at Westminster - and as we approached L' Ulivo, I suggested we go there, knowing it to be good. Italian would be a good idea, to set us up for a long day of traipsing around..
We were lucky to get about the last table. Service was friendly, as ever, and quick enough - slowing down, of course, as the meal progressed. But we managed ok. I had some gorgeous garlic pizza bread, she had bruschetta, I had chicken in a white wine and mushroom sauce - good, but the highlight of the main course for me were the roast potatoes I'd ordered to go with it. She had duck in a limoncello sauce, so strong you could smell it from where I sat. We scoffed the lot, and a half litre of house white - a bit sharp, but did the trick. Dessert was, for her, a cheesecake that was more like a sponge cake, with cheese in the middle - mine took marginally less time to choose than I'd taken to book the play.. open dessert menu, scan, see "mint chocolate bombe", close menu. Lovely, crispy dark chocolate shell over a hemisphere of mint ice cream, with a centre of chocolate sauce. O yes. And after that, I was stuffed for the entire day - just as well, since our oven at home had been broken since I got back, with no word on when it'd be fixed.
We were conscious of time, since we'd planned to go to 2 Temple Place, for an Egyptian exhibition they're running - but which closed at 4:30. We walked, but hadn't realised just how close we were - we strolled there in about 10 minutes! I've passed this place so many times but never gone in - they open every now and again for exhibitions and tours. This exhibition is free, and very interesting - more crowded than Helen had expected, it being the Saturday after Easter would have contributed to that.
But oh my, we nearly forgot to look at it, in our fascination with the house itself! Gorgeous, intricate carvings on every surface, oak panelling, miniature statues dotted about. Statues on the staircase posts, in 17th Century costume. A beautiful stained glass ceiling in the stairwell didn't prepare us for the stunning stained glass windows in the room upstairs, whimsical landscapes,shedding coloured light on the dim room within, the main windows covered to protect the exhibits. As we exclaimed - the craftsmanship, the time, the money, the attention to detail, that went into the decoration of this house are rare indeed. This exhibition runs until the 24th - well recommended, even if just to see this amazing house. (House tours also available, but you have to pay for those.) And they have a little café, just behind reception, where we had a drink to revive ourselves.
Afterwards, it was still too early even to think about heading to the theatre, so we sloped off to Covent Garden - and it was around this time, earlier than forecast, that it started to rain! Just as well the market is covered - we moseyed around there a bit, Helen making some purchases, although I didn't - not even the jumper with the logo "Normal People Scare Me". Although it was tempting. Anyhoo, she finally led me to Whittard's tea shop - small on ground level, it has a massive cellar, where you can sample, sniff, buy bags and mixtures, or ready-made teas. A real tea den! Not being a tea-drinker myself, I waited for her on a bench outside..
..which was how I came to notice the sign for Pollock's Theatrical Workshop. When she emerged with her exotic tea, we were both curious, musing that the sign must refer to the small staircase we could see, leading - perhaps - to a room we could just glimpse, above an ice cream parlour. Ok, up we popped.. and what an Aladdin's cave! The most enchanting little space, it's crammed with those teeny paper theatres with teenier paper actors you can move about. Books of historical cut-out paper dolls, with costumes to cut out. Marionettes! We cooed, and oohed and ahhed, and yes, she again found something to buy. Great finds she was making! I couldn't justify it, but oh how I wished I had someone with a birthday coming up, who would've appreciated something from there.. just so I could buy something..
The rain was heavier when we emerged, and we sheltered in a café for a bit, with drinks and a doughnut, until abt 6, when we judged it was late enough to move. Got a bus to just up the road from the theatre, made our way to the bar, got drinks, were joined by further early-birds. First time I'd beaten the Man with the Hat to it! Chatted convivially, watching wave after wave of his faithful followers arrive - it was a big crowd, last night. And in due course, we moved en masse to the theatre - the "Large", for this production of The Fifth Column.
I saw a couple of reviews of this - the production is quite a big deal, being the first London staging in 70 years. As someone pointed out later, it's also the 80th anniversary of the start of the Spanish Civil War, in which it's set. The review on Euronews wasn't massively enthusiastic, nonetheless emphasising the historical interest. The Standard review on Wednesday was scathing! What the hey, I reasoned, I walked out of the play the night before, so this could hardly be worse.. (BTW, I see the Guardian has now weighed in on it..)
They started with a smidgeon of Spanish guitar, as we were taking our seats. Lovely - just a shame I couldn't hear it better, I absolutely love Spanish guitar. An interesting set was arranged to the right, kind of taking up half the room, with seating arranged in two tiers in the other half - most of us ended up taking a slight side seat, with this arrangement, but I think every seat had a decent view. The set itself comprised adjoining rooms in a suite in the Hotel Florida, with a couple of ensuite bathrooms leading off, and a couple of doors to the hall. Each had a balcony, onto which characters could step to observe the bombardments in the street below (although we saw none of that, it was suggested with sound and lighting), and stairs to the side led to an upper level, only used once in the second act as a Nationalist outpost, attacked by our heroes. Interrogation scenes were held at a table in front of the set proper, a light descending from the ceiling for the purpose, to centre our attention on that spot.
Well then, was it any good? Was it as terrible as predicted? Well, I didn't leave early. Actually, as it started, it began to ring a bell - I'm sure I saw at least part of it on telly once, perhaps the film version. I was relieved to realise, as it progressed, that I probably wouldn't have an issue with it.. the Standard was rather snide about Hemingway writing the character as a gung-ho, heroic version of himself, but honestly, I love that about Hemingway, so I didn't have a problem with it. Yes, his girlfriend in the play was depicted as rather witless, but had she been a stronger character, she'd have diluted the macho element, wouldn't she? Others have complained about the lack of focus on the war itself. True, there's more emphasis on the "Hemingway" character, his motivation, his double life and choosing of a life of excitement over one of dull domesticity.
Well, I enjoyed it. I thought the acting was good, the staging excellent. Not his best work, and not the play to go to for high-octane action scenes, a complicated plot, or, indeed, feminist ideals. But I think Hemingway fans will enjoy it, for the chance to see a shadow of the man himself, larger-than-life as he ever was. Runs until a week from Saturday - booking probably advisable, at least at the weekends. It was pretty packed last night, and I think there are enough Hemingway fans around to keep the house busy!
Sadly, Helen had to run afterwards - the problem with living outside of London and depending on irregular trains. But quite a few of us held the fort, and - with a large Italian lunch inside me - I managed to down a good bit more wine. And damned if there wasn't a hard core of us to last to the bitter end, and be thrown out (as is traditional for the group). Which took some stamina, as the bar stayed open till midnight. Handily enough, my bus came just after I got to the stop - so I got home safe and sound. But by the time I could've gotten around to writing the blog, it was 4am! Bit late - I went to bed instead.
Just as well I have a late start today, then. I'm quite organised with my films for once, and this evening I'm finally heading to see Spotlight - the true story of how the Boston Globe uncovered the child sex abuse scandal in the local diocese. Stars Mark Ruffalo, Michael Keaton, Rachel McAdams, Liev Schreiber. Mind you, literally the only showing today in London is in a place called Olympic Studios: a first for me. Hey, at least it's on my side of town! And I'm gonna be brave and try to drive - the route doesn't LOOK too difficult. I'm charging my phone to make sure it can find me if I get lost. Oh, and I can cook before I go - our oven got fixed, yay! (In other news, TFL also spontaneously realised their mistake over my Oyster card, so now I don't have to be bothered with them. Life is good.)
Tomorrow, I'm off to see War of the Worlds, at the Dominion Theatre - got a Timeout offer for a restricted view seat, which looks ok. Stars Liam Neeson - on a screen. Should be fun..
On Tuesday, I got a cheap ticket to Orpheus Sonfonia Principals - a concert at Grosvenor Chapel in Mayfair. Another new venue for me..
On Wednesday, I'm back with the World Music Meetup - another concert at Sands Film Studios. Great venue, diverse artists - this time, it's a Zambian performer called Namvula. Great, too, that it's so much handier to get there from where I am now!
On Thursday, my second film of the week is gonna be 10 Cloverfield Lane - in my local Cineworld, so already booked, 'coz that's cheaper. Sounds interesting - SciFi thriller, in which a woman wakes from a car crash to find herself in an underground bunker, with two men (one being John Goodman) who say they can't leave, because there's been some kind of apocalypse. Produced by JJ Abrams, so bound to be entertaining - and, of course, highly rated to come at the top of my film list. I booked the later showing, for the free car parking (after 7) - which is just as well, as it turns out I have to stay late in Guildford that day.
I can afford to be out a bit later than usual, since I'll be working from home on Friday - flying back to Ireland for a long weekend, actually: for cheaper flights, again. On Saturday, my mother and I are off to see the Three Tenors, at the University Concert Hall - she's a big fan. Not flying back until the Monday - which is a bummer, because (forgetting my travel dates) I'd booked a ticket for the Crick Crack Club. And now it turns out the London European Club are going as well - so that'd have been a good night. Can't be helped - I'd never be back in time.
I am with the London European Club on the next day, though, for a talk on Theatre and Language: Samuel Beckett "Waiting for Godot". Taking place at the Museum of London, it's a talk about the play, rather than a performance of the play itself. But I love Beckett, so that should be interesting.
