Tuesday, 19 December 2017

Nürnberg Christmas Market - Day VI

On Tuesday, I had booked a Funzing talk - Interviews With a Serial Killer, courtesy of London Speaks Sessions and LDN Talks @ Night. For which, with their new loyalty scheme, I earned £10 credit! Not so shabby.. But it wasn't very Christmassy, all the same, and I subsequently booked an evening at Keats House, with London Social Detours. Where they explored Christmas in the Romantic era - ahh! Sadly, not now possible, as our flight back from Nürnberg was cancelled, owing to snowstorms in Stansted, and we were now booked on a flight on Tuesday night. Pity that London Social Detours doesn't offer refunds, as Funzing does - but at least it cost less. (FYI The event itself was free - the group imposed the charge, and I felt I wouldn't be able to avoid them in that venue, which was why I paid.)

Anyway, here we were on our last day in Nürnberg. The fun continued for the guys on the bus, who sent an interesting stream of WhatsApp messages all day:

07:32 Still in Calais.. Trying to get onto the ferry now, after waiting for about 6-7 hours for a tunnel slot..
07.33 Convinced we will be home by Christmas 2017
08.20 Now missed our ferry due to one of our fellow passengers getting lost.
10.03 we just boarded the ferry a couple of minutes ago


As for us, the guidebooks suggested the National Museum, so that was where we started, getting directions on the way from the helpful guide for the City Train, a mini sightseeing train that runs a roughly circular route through the Altstadt. A fascinating sculpture leading to the entrance sees 27 white pillars line the route, each engraved with a separate article from the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, in German and one other language. Of course, this hearkens back to Nürnberg's history as the centre of the post-war Nazi trials.


(Lots) more photos here. Picking up a free plan to the building, we noticed that it was a bit tricky to make our way around to all the sections - this is because it's spread over a number of buildings, including a former church. But hey, we did our damnedest, climbing the stairs all the way to the top - and it was worth it, with a terrific exhibition up there of early 19th Century romantic German art. And, by the way, a guillotine - after all, it hadn't been that long since they were in vogue..


Further down, a really detailed exhibit on underwear (some of which was quite unusual) was punctuated by updates from the group, who did finally make it to London - only 22 hours late. I believe they got compensatory vouchers. As for us, we were ooh-ing and aah-ing over elaborate musical instruments:


My personal favourite section, predictably, was the medieval art - paintings and scultures - centred on the old church. I just adore this stuff, and was delighted with it:

 

Mind you, was I ever sick of looking at Madonnas - as popular a topic, back in the day, as the Kardashians now. And as we were strolling through here, we were getting jolly photos of the bus, safely landing in the UK..

A trip to the prehistoric / ancient history section, where we discovered that this was the site of a Roman fort - possibly one of their easiest conquests, as no-one had been living here before that - and we were ready for lunch, in the museum cafe. Which was a revelation, as I had quite honestly the best steak I've had in years.. unusually, served on a tray. Friendly, English-speaking service too - and a case full of cake that you can choose for dessert.

The same ticket does you for the small toy museum, just down the road - requiring a small deposit for the locker in which you have to leave any bags. Floors of ornate dolls' houses and paper theatres enthralled us - but there is actually a larger toy museum in town, as we subsequently discovered.

To save our feet, we took the City Train shortly after - it was just about to leave. And we were on our own in the last carriage, where they put on an English-language commentary for us. Highly recommended, it's a great way to see both sights you knew about, and some you didn't - Helen was delighted to find a cat cafe en route, and of course that was where we made a beeline for when we got off. Katzentempel is a cosy, vegan cafe, with a cow's milk option - I had a hot chocolate, Helen an herbal tea while we tried to catch glimpses of cats that, as usual, studiously ignored us.

Back to the hotel to charge our phones, then to drag our things to the airport. An easy journey though, just seven stops from the railway station to the airport, on the underground. And the lovely lady at check-in agreed to check us in and take our cases, even though we were early! Not, mind you, that there was much advantage in being on the other side of security - it turned out that there is no proper eatery, and we were forced to take our choice from a case of sandwiches, rolls, and pretzels.

Ultimately, our flight was delayed - the incoming plane was late - and while we were waiting, we got chatting to the one remaining group member, who was on the same flight. Ryanair did its famous half-hour turnaround, and we were soon airborne - unfortunately, none of my food choices were available. This was not a happy food evening for me. At the other end, I knew there was a choice of two trains - 11.59pm and 12.30am.. the way to the platform is so quick and easy that I made the 11.59 in no time flat. I'd forgotten that, it'd been so long! Not a pleasant walk home from Liverpool Street though, in the constant drizzle, and with the drunks around the station, and a weird, intermittent howling sound in the near distance.. Think I might take the bus back in future, especially with all the road works I had to make my way around.

On Wednesday, my last visit of the year to Sands Films - finally advertised on Meetup, through the World Music MeetupTunedIn London had a concert by Plastikes Karekles, a Greek group. The friend I've been persuading to go to the Crick Crack events had suggested that night for a nostalgic trip, by some of us, to Top Secret - I would rather do that, but unfortunately he couldn't get anyone else to agree, so we postponed the idea.

On Thursday, my friends who came to Soho a while ago were headed to Wilton's Music Hall, for something called The Box of Delights. And for once, I let them decide for me, and went myself too.

On Friday, my final trip of the year to the Crick Crack Club - Jan Blake was performing Masters of Hex at the British Library. Along with Ben Haggerty and TUUP. Same friend going with me as did on the 29th, and Helen too - and the same lunatic. Who would probably avoid us, and good enough for her. On Saturday, I flew back to Ireland for Christmas - a good chance to get my head together, with everything that's going on!

Flying back to London on the 2nd of January, and on the 3rd I've booked to see Stewart Lee at Leicester Square Theatre. Determinedly not in the front two rows - not for a comedy show!

On the 4th of January, I'm back with Up in the Cheap Seats (Happy New Year to them!), who are off to see Hanna, at the Arcola.

On the 5th of January, I thought Time Out threw me a curiously interesting event - so I'm going on this Space Descent VR experience, at the Science Museum. I'll have to leave work early for it - there are timed slots, and it consists of wearing goggles, and living the experience of a descent to earth, with the astronaut Tim Peake narrating in your ears.

On the 6th of January, Crick Crack is back! Happy New Year to them too. The story of When Time Began is being told at King's Place. Creation myths. And wouldn't you know it, we're being treated to a host of performers - the husband and wife team, Emily and Nick Hennessy, and co-founder of the club, the amazing Ben Haggerty. Accompaniment provided by the wonderful musician, Sheema Mukherjee.

On the 7th of January, another Happy new Year - this time to Let's Do This (LDT), who are off to an art exhibition. Gilbert & George: the Beard Pictures and their Fuckosophy. Sorry, but that is the title. Showing at the White Cube Gallery. Honestly, but for the group that's hosting, I wouldn't bother..

And finally, more art on the 8th of January, which I'll probably enjoy more. I'm taking the day off to go see Reflections at the National Gallery - an exhibition of Pre-Raphaelites, which, with a free day, I can peruse at my leisure. As inspired by a walk by the excellent London Literary Walks - roll on the summer, and a return of those! Oh, and just yesterday, LDT advertised another trip to the excellent Vintage Swing Jazz evenings at Wilton's - for the evening of the 8th. And why not, indeed? So I booked that, too..

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