Google Maps, of course, was great until I actually got to Liverpool Street, where it was sending me in by the cargo bay. "No access to station" was a fairly clear sign. So, guessing from the map, I walked around - just as well I was early. I did make my train, and was just sat in my seat when Helen, who was coming too, started sending messages that she was having breakfast at the airport hotel. Huh. Well for some.
We duly met at the airport, just after 6. No sign of the group until we made our way through to the gate - at which point, the organiser's tall head stood high above the rest of the queue. And so onto the plane, and mercifully, breakfast - a ham and cheese croissant and a hot chocolate. I was fed at last! Just about an 80-minute flight, and we were there.
And there we stayed, in quite the longest passport queue I've ever had to endure. Over an hour, we were on the stairs - progress was to pass through the electronic door, where a queue snaked in a curve, filling every available space in front of passport control. Only two people on - and a lot of people whose visas needed checking, it seemed. Blast it, what a start.. never mind, by the time we made it outside, our organiser had bought us Underground tickets to town (cost included in the trip). And gee, we were on the U2 line..! :-) FYI, it seems this is the newest underground system in the country - and another with full internet access! Kudos.
Outside again, it was a bit nippy as he led us past some posh hotels, to the Ibis around the corner - very central it is, near the main station and on the edge of the old town. We checked into twin rooms, and had half an hour or so to refresh ourselves before he met us in the lobby for a briefing. Nothing if not organised, this organiser, he had handouts for us all, with itineraries and snippets of information. Mind you, as he said, all activities were completely optional.
But we did - apart from some who hadn't arrived yet - take him up on his offer of a tour of the old town, then and there. Like kids, we were, as we scurried along, ooh-ing and aah-ing.. I'm an absolute sucker for things mediaeval, and I don't mind telling you that I fell completely in love with the place. New favoured retirement destination. We started with the artisan's market, a short walk from the hotel:
(Lots) more photos here. No time for shopping on this occasion - but we vowed we'd be back. Oh my goodness, all the little shops, with dinky, handmade goods out front - in one, our organiser pointed out the metalworker, just inside a window, no protective gear, just working away as his forefathers had done: and producing the most beautiful and intricate work. Every single shop was a treasure trove, and we were reluctant to leave.
Leave we did, heading down the hill in the direction of Christkindlesmarkt, apparently the most famous Christmas market in Europe. And while we scattered in different directions, thrilled at all the fairy-tale-like stands on the way, we did stay pretty much together as a group. By the time our organiser led us to a group of stalls by the river, where we had a much-needed, warming lunch, standing in the cold, we had concluded that Nürnberg is actually the home of Christmas.
When we got on the move again, he detoured from the market - as he confided, he was doing this deliberately, so we wouldn't get there until dark, and we'd have the lights. But my, what we found in the backstreets..
He had us climbing most of the way up to the castle when we rebelled, and decided to head for a cafe - the Zum Albrecht Dürer Haus was close, and had a table that was reserved for later, but would be ok for us. I wasn't really hungry at this point, but had a glass of wine - others had quite substantial titbits, soup, or desserts.
On the way back down to the market, we detoured into St. Sebaldus' Church:
And so finally, we were let loose on the market, where our organiser wished us well and left us to it, suggesting we all meet later in the evening. And if you ever doubted that this was the centre of Christmas, this place might confirm it for you.
Shopped out, we returned to the hotel, then gathered in the lobby at the agreed time. Sadly, our organiser sent word that he wasn't feeling well, and was going to skip dinner - the rest of us, seeking a place that would have a table for so many at short notice, asked help of reception, who sent us up the road to Barfüßer Hausbrauerei Nürnberg, where we were, indeed, sat. Quite a cavernous place, it was also quite noisy - and busy. And we had a very flustered waiter, who instructed us sternly that we had to be out by 9. And then left me waiting for ages for my steak - which was edible, if a bit bland - I didn't finish it. Nor did any of us tip him, hence his rather miffed face as we left.
During the meal, we got word that the organiser wasn't going to be well enough the following day to accompany us to Bamberg, so he suggested that we leave that scheduled trip till Saturday, and spend Friday around Nürnberg. Well, at least we'd get some shopping in..! More to come.
That trip took up the weekend. And wouldn't you know it, our flight back on Sunday night was cancelled - there'd been a snowstorm in Stansted. Fully two days later was the first flight we could get back there - so I missed a couple of things I'd booked; on Monday - having taken the day off work - I was booked for the Barbershop Chronicles. At the National. And on Tuesday, I booked a Funzing talk - Interviews With a Serial Killer, courtesy of London Speaks Sessions and LDN Talks @ Night. For which, with their new loyalty scheme, I earned £10 credit! Not so shabby.. But it wasn't very Christmassy, all the same, and I subsequently booked an evening at Keats House, with London Social Detours. Where they explored Christmas in the Romantic era - ahh! Sadly, neither was now possible.
Back at last, and last night, my last visit of the year to Sands Films - finally advertised on Meetup, through the World Music Meetup, TunedIn London had a concert by Plastikes Karekles, a Greek group. The friend I've been persuading to go to the Crick Crack events had suggested that night for a nostalgic trip, by some of us, to Top Secret - I would rather do that, but unfortunately he couldn't get anyone else to agree, so we postponed the idea.
Tonight, my friends who came to Soho a while ago are headed to Wilton's Music Hall, for something called The Box of Delights. And for once, I'm letting them decide for me, and am going myself too.
Tomorrow, my final trip of the year to the Crick Crack Club - Jan Blake is performing Masters of Hex at the British Library. Along with Ben Haggerty and TUUP. Same friend going with me as did on the 29th, and Helen too - and the same lunatic. Who will probably avoid us, and good enough for her. Next day, I'm back to Ireland for Christmas.
Flying back to London on the 2nd of January, and on the 3rd I've booked to see Stewart Lee at Leicester Square Theatre. Determinedly not in the front two rows - not for a comedy show!
On the 4th of January, I'm back with Up in the Cheap Seats (Happy New Year to them!), who are off to see Hanna, at the Arcola.
On the 5th of January, I thought Time Out threw me a curiously interesting event - so I'm going on this Space Descent VR experience, at the Science Museum. I'll have to leave work early for it - there are timed slots, and it consists of wearing goggles, and living the experience of a descent to earth, with the astronaut Tim Peake narrating in your ears.
On the 6th of January, Crick Crack is back! Happy New Year to them too. The story of When Time Began is being told at King's Place. Creation myths. And wouldn't you know it, we're being treated to a host of performers - the husband and wife team, Emily and Nick Hennessy, and co-founder of the club, the amazing Ben Haggerty. Accompaniment provided by the wonderful musician, Sheema Mukherjee.
On the 7th of January, another Happy new Year - this time to Let's Do This, who are off to an art exhibition. Gilbert & George: the Beard Pictures and their Fuckosophy. Sorry, but that is the title. Showing at the White Cube Gallery. Honestly, but for the group that's hosting, I wouldn't bother..
And finally, more art on the 8th of January, which I'll probably enjoy more. I'm taking the day off to go see Reflections at the National Gallery - an exhibition of Pre-Raphaelites, which, with a free day, I can peruse at my leisure. As inspired by a walk by the excellent London Literary Walks - roll on the summer, and a return of those!
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