Tourist London, Part 2 (Saturday)

Saturday dawned with work to be done, as our plans had changed and, with District and Circle lines out of action, I had to research bus routes. They wanted to go to Harrod's, I wanted them to see the V&A, and it turned out they're only ten minutes walk apart, so that was a perfect pairing! Just take the Cromwell Road exit from the V&A and turn left. Initially, I discovered we could take the Victoria line, followed by the Piccadilly line, to South Kensington for the V&A, so that's what we agreed to do, and I met them at Victoria Tube Station. After a bus ride (the C1) that, ironically, took me right past the V&A and Harrod's. Ah well.

My guests declared they'd slept very well, that the hotel was comfortable and quiet - and despite only continental breakfast being available at the weekends, they were delighted with the selection. Enchanted by the hotel overall, in fact!

The Tube was about as packed as I've seen it - all the tourists diverting from District and Circle, of course. So we had a crammed ride, but fortunately not many stops. Again, I say, if it's crammed, head for either end of the platform, so as to board the very front or back of the train - it's less crowded there.

We disembarked at South Ken, and took the subway to the V&A, passing the obligatory busker, who was blaring out jazz. Had a lovely stroll around the V&A - photos here. It's a gorgeous museum of art and design, with a statue hall at the subway entrance, and highlights including a large jewellery gallery and an enchanting gallery of stained glass and religious metalwork. We were also particularly taken by the silver gallery, and my guests were delighted by the central garden, with its feature pond, and people sitting around, eating ice cream and having drinks from the stall, and children paddling in the pond. We agreed that this is a most liveable city. If you can handle the rent/mortgage..

By the time we left, we were getting hungry, but the museum cafe was packed and we decided to search further. On the way to Harrod's, we passed a pub called the Bunch of Grapes, and since pubs generally do food, we said we'd give it a try. It turned out to be an excellent lunching spot - not too busy, reasonably priced, good service, and delicious food. I was boring and had the hunter's chicken again (obviously an English pub lunch staple), and my guests had traditional fish n chips.

Saturday afternoon was primarily given over to shopping. After lunch, we detoured to a nearby souvenir shop, then it was Harrod's turn. It was as crowded as ever, of course, and impossible to navigate. Bears, as ever, featured heavily. We did make a point of visiting the shrine to Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed, the former owner's son, who was going out with her when they were killed in a car crash. The shrine is on Lower Ground level, at the bottom of the famous Egyptian escalator. Now, the shrine itself, with pictures of them both, and candles, is one thing - but in my opinion, the large statue that stands between it and the book of condolence - which is still open - and depicts both apparently setting free some kind of bird.. that's a bit much. Anyway, now you know where to find it.

We took the #74 bus from just across the road to Oxford Street, alighting for Primark, which one of my guests had a particular interest in visiting. We other two made for Selfridges, just up the road, where we had less interest in shopping and more in just having a drink in the cafe and relaxing. We were on our way to the toilets when we passed the new cinema! They only opened it about a week ago - I'd forgotten all about it. They seem to be showing mainly classics - we were browsing the listings when an usher emerged and asked whether we were going to a film. "No," we said - but she invited us in for a look around anyway. The interior is dark, the walls decorated in dark grey and hung with film photos. The bar is small and intimate, lined with comfortable seating, and staffed by people who looked quite bored, kitted out in 50s-style usher uniforms. So we decided to have another drink there, occupying the plush sofa. On our way out, we had a peek at the cinema, which had comfy-looking double seats. Definitely a welcome addition to a busy store on a busy street, this cinema will provide welcome respite after a hard day's shopping. Or indeed, somewhere to plonk the less enthusiastic shoppers in your group!

Mind you, our trip to the toilets was less successful. Oh, we made it to the toilets all right, and did what we needed to - but the queue was horrendous, and the state of the cubicle floors was woeful, filthy and splashed: despite the lady going around with a mop. Ugh. Proceed with caution.

Our bus stop to head southwards was conveniently located just outside. We texted our companion to meet us there when she was done. Now, I had method in directing us southwards - unbeknownst to my guests, I had booked tickets for all of us to an all-male burlesque show - Briefs, the Second Coming - at the Spiegeltent in London Wonderground. Thing was, the show was at 7.30, I still had to pick up the tickets, and we weren't going to be able to get a bus all the way there. From the convenient map on the bus stop, I could see that three of the four buses that stopped there went to Trafalgar Square, which was the best we could do. As she kept texting us to say she was delayed, I began to get a little worried..

Well, she showed up just past 6.30, with stories of unbelieveable queues, and how she ended up just pulling clothes on over what she was wearing, in front of a mirror, to save queueing time. She was delighted though - apparently, the range is much better here than in Ireland. And off we went to Trafalgar Square, on the #6, which happened to be the next bus along, and passed some interesting sights on the way. And when we alighted, I had to balance my understandable desire to race down the road with the knowledge that the longer I kept this a surprise, the better the surprise would be - so I couldn't seem to be in too much of a hurry. We took a route down Villers Street, so I could show them some restaurants where we might eat later - L' Ulivo appealed. (I was just worried someone was going to suggest we eat now..!)

We trekked the steps up to the bridge - I think I'm more accustomed to them; it's a bit of a hike! We took the right side up, so they could have a view of the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament. Well, it's a beautiful view - but I could've cursed their photo-taking as I tried to hurry them along (gently), the box office now in sight! Finally, I asked the one to go find the other, as I had a bit of business to conduct yonder. "Ok," she said, and off I dashed. By the time I had the tickets, my other guest had reappeared, and both were staring at me curiously. "C'mon, ladies," I said, "we have a queue to join!"

Well, they were delighted! Firstly, by the fantasy-land that is the Wonderground. I pointed out the foodstalls and the carousel that doubles as a bar, but we really didn't have any time to explore as I hurried them towards the spiegeltent. Anyway, we made it with five minutes to spare, and were lucky to get three seats together. And I still hadn't told them what they had come to see! Finally, I gave them the title.

I don't really think a more detailed explanation would've done this show justice. Spangly costumes gave way to barely-there costumes, held on with a lick and a prayer. It was raucous, it was irreverent. Bananas featured prominently. The show also incorporated some circus, and the opening act, gymnastics on a suspended ring, was stupendous - my stand-out moment. I've never seen a gymnastics act performed so gracefully and fluidly. And all to a thumping soundtrack.

Mind you, we were to be glad to be in the back row. Banana peels flew everywhere, whizzing past our heads. The guy with the flaming ring got quite close to the front row - and the last act featured water so prominently (and enthusiastic splashing) that the front row was given plastic sheeting to hold over themselves: but even in the back row, we got splashed. Still, all in a night's fun, eh? The show is fantastic fun, and was a sell-out, from what I could see. Booking definitely recommended - runs until the 28th. (BTW, what is it about Aussies and circus acts? Do they have an enormous circus school in Australia or something that keeps churning them out, so they keep streaming over here? Well, keep 'em coming!)

We were well ready to eat afterwards. I took them back via the other side of the bridge, to show them the gorgeous view of the City, St Paul's, and the South Bank, and we took the overhead passageway back to Villiers Street because of the construction work at Embankment. The meal was excellent, with warm and friendly Italian service, and we got a window seat to watch the passers by.. I'll be back.

On the way back for the night, we took a small detour to see the buzz of Leicester Square and Theatreland, and wandered past Chinatown and down Shaftesbury Avenue to Piccadilly Circus. The city that never sleeps entertained us properly, before we took the Tube home. I sent my charges on their way at Green Park, to change to the Victoria line - the reverse of the journey we'd taken in the morning. Well, apparently they made it to Victoria all right. Unfortunately, they got lost in the train station, having taken the wrong exit. Ah well, all's well that ends well, and they did get to their beds eventually!

Right, lunch beckons! Just one more blog to do for the weekend.. Sunday brought a wee bit more sightseeing.

Tourist Weekend! Friday

Friday
Phew, what a weekend! So, as I mentioned, I had friends come to London for the weekend. Dashed through work on Friday so I could go meet them at lunchtime - I had a half day. I needn't have been quite so worried - turned out they took a slower bus than recommended.. :-) and I arrived at Victoria before they did.

Well. Yes, I did arrive at Victoria. So were they to do. However, I have never before been to the Victoria Coach Station, and just assumed it was in the main building, along with the bus, rail, and underground stations. So I followed the signs that said "bus" and positioned myself there. Sure I was in the right place, I refused an offer of help from one of the people standing around waiting, employed to give it. After a while though, it began to bother me that the only buses I could see were London buses.. so I had a wander, and came across a sign (in the train station) for the coach station. Somewhere else entirely. Wonderful.

It was at that point that they phoned me to say they'd arrived. I naively asked whether they could possibly come to the train station. I didn't realise that the coach station is several streets away and very badly signposted, both on approach and the building itself. I wandered out onto the street, trying to get directions from them and being woefully confused that none of us could see the same things. In due course, I came across a map that directed me to the coach station - even when I did find the right street, and was walking alongside the station, I didn't realise it until I happened upon the entrance at the end! Jeez, talk about the poor relation of the stations..

Anyway, once I got that far, I found them. We were all hungry, it being lunchtime, and stopped at the first eatery we came across - the Traveller's Tavern, in the station itself. We easily got a table, ordered and paid at the bar. I can testify that their hunter's chicken is delicious! The pub itself is attractively decorated, and service comes with a smile. We were well fed by the time we ventured outside to figure our way back to their hotel, so they could leave their bags.

They were staying at the Grange Rochester - which we were glad to find (eventually). In retrospect, we took a slightly roundabout route - but then, as I say, I've never before been to the coach station. Anyway, we eventually came to the filling station at the junction with Rochester Row, which meant we were nearby. This would be their nearest stop to fill up on the essentials. Sure enough, we were at the hotel minutes later.

It's a cosy place - quiet, they said afterwards. Lots of wood, lots of brass. Rather attractive. Too hot upstairs, as usual - there isn't any aircon either. They were to find London very humid all weekend, compared to what they're used to - but at least they were provided with two electric fans in what turned out to be quite a large room, with three beds. The room also provided a decent-sized ensuite, a flat-screen tv, a safe, and tea/coffee making facilities.

After a bit of r&r, we hit the town. The original plan had been to head to Notting Hill, but with a ghost walk planned for a specific time that evening, we figured that time was now against us. They suggested we stay more local, and I suggested that we skip straight to the bit of the itinerary that involved walking up to Buckingham Palace - not far, closer than the coach station - then up the Mall, drop into the ICA bookshop for a minute, and to Trafalgar Square, where we could decide what to do next.

They got Oyster cards on the way, at the Underground station. Seems the procedure has changed somewhat from when I got mine, some years back - in those olden days, you just paid for the credit on the card, and had to get it from a ticket office. Now, you can get them from a machine, and must pay a £5 deposit on each! (refundable if you return the card). Which means the card now costs £5, basically. Well, you need it for the buses - and with engineering works on both Circle and District lines this weekend, that was going to be necessary: and it's still much better value than cash, even when you can use that.

That done, off we went to Buckingham Palace. They were quite impressed to find it so close to their hotel, and we spent much time photographing each other in front of it. Time didn't allow us to go in. We then made our way up the Mall, stopping for refreshments - including some very tasty ice cream - at a kiosk in Green Park. Photos of the day available here. Progressing up the mall, we came across a pair of sentries guarding some side entrance or other. A number of tourists were gathered around, and as we were fumbling with cameras and deciding what photos to take, I guess someone must've got too close, because - for all their famous statue-like composure, one of the sentries completely lost it and roared to GET BACK! NOW!!! Um, yes. We all legged it.

We popped into the ICA bookshop briefly, where some purchases were made - it's got a very interesting range. We sat, chatted, and people-watched in Trafalgar Square for a while, having some more snacks at the café, wandered around Westminster, then made our way to Monument for the ghost walk. Corinna was our guide, and despite being softly spoken as she chatted to us beforehand, she was quite capable of projecting her voice as needed. I hadn't researched the guides beforehand, so it came as a surprise both to learn that she is an actor, and to have her burst into song - not once, but twice, on the tour. See, I've done this walk before - last Hallowe'en, in fact - but with a different guide (Shaughan), and not only are the guides different, but it transpires that they cover different routes, and have completely different repertoires of stories! So it is possible to take the same tour twice and have a completely different experience.

She led us on a merry trek for the next two hours, through narrow passageways and underpasses, over hidden bridges, around the City. We got to stand on a height, with a lovely view of the Thames, Tower Bridge and the Shard, as the daylight dimmed and the City lights came on. We unexpectedly got into a church, bombed during the Blitz and converted to a garden, and whose gate should have been closed by then. It was lovely, with a fountain in the middle, surrounded by benches - onto which we gratefully sank, as she regaled us with a tale of a ghostly white Persian cat, and a song. Our next musical interlude (which included seating too) was in the courtyard of the Guildhall, where she got us all to join in as a ghostly chorus. The tour ended in the Barbican, where we got to explore passageways I hadn't seen before.

The night ended with a seemingly interminable wait at Barbican Station for a Circle line train, so we could go direct. So much for a 15-minute wait between trains - we must have been waiting for twice that long when, just as we gave up and were planning an alternative route, one finally deigned to appear. We really needed to eat now, so figured the easiest was to head for the Buckingham Balti, near Victoria.

And so to bed. And so to bed for me now too, as it's past my bedtime.. more to follow, when I get a moment!